2019 Domaine Moreau-Naudet
We tasted this from two tanks, one of 20hl and one of 100hl. The smaller tank showed a less obviously ripe citrus character than the Petit Chablis, with more mineral - intense mineral finish. The larger tank had juicier fruit, and seemed denser - more compact. It's going to be a great 'village' Chablis. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 L&S (Oct 2020)
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The 2019 Chablis Village clearly has much more precision and terroir expression compared with the Petit Chablis. The palate is well balanced with a citrus, quite spicy entry, veins of stem ginger towards the harmonious finish. For early drinking only. Drinking range: 2021 - 2023 Rating: 87 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Taken from one small tank, not yet blended. The wine, which comes from Chablis, Préhy and Courgis, will be bottled between January and March. Full bright yellow, the nose is much fresher than the Petit Chablis and there is impressive depth, but the sunshine shows in the toasted bacon note alongside, rather than instead of, the Chablis minerals. Length here. Tasted: September 2020 *** Rating: 86 - 88 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
Ripe and golden like the Petit Chablis. Rich, almost honeyed on the palate, the citrus flavours are so ripe. But as with the Petit Chablis, this is very well balanced with the freshness of the region with a mouth-watering and intense, slightly spicy aftertaste. Drinking range: 2022 - 2027 Rating: 16.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
Chablis, the very archetype of dry white wine. Whether accompanying something from the deep, or a light lunch, or enjoyed elegantly with friends, the crisp minerality of a Chablis is hard to beat. And, of course, it is ideal aperitif served nicely chilled before a good dinner.
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