PALO CORTADO

'Less than a pound for every year we have been looking after it!' exclaimed Firmin Hidalgo while we tasted together and he discovered our price for this cracking sherry. Indeed although they legally have to state this is 20 years old, the Hidalgo Palo Cortado in fact spends at least 30 years in the solera before release. The results are sensational. This is super-sophisticated stuff and represents extraordinary value. Rich and beautifully textured. Loaded with tobacco leaf, some chopped dates, glorious molasses, spiced raisin and then a lifting creamy sweep surges through with a crisp, cutting edge of brighter more citrussy notes. Lift the whole and leaving you gasping for the next sip. The ever enterprising Hidalgo family initially came up with the 'Napoleon' brand of Palo Cortado to appeal to the invading French armies of the peninsular war in the early 1800s. When the Duke of Wellington arrived via Portugal to help the Spaniards rebuff this French invasion - the canny family saw another opportunity. The British would not drink a sherry called Napoleon - so they created a new brand - 'Wellington' - it survives to this day and is a masterclass in marketing - and great wine-making! L&S (Sept 2016)