Château Duhart Milon
Pauillac Quatrième cru 1855
Château Duhart Milon is owned by its very illustrious neighbour Château Lafite-Rothschild, with whom it shares a vineyard management and wine making team.
Duhart is said to have been a pirate in the service of Loius XV who settled in the Médoc in his retirement. Indeed, the "pirate's house" stood by the Gironde until the 1950's and is pictured on the label. His vineyard was united with Mandavy-Milon in the 1830's by the Castéja family. Earning 4th Growth status was a high point for Duhart-Milon with the next 100+ years being a period of some decline. Vineyards were sold off (notably to the Batailleys) and the wines declined considerably in quality. By the time Baron Eric de Rothschild bought Duhart-Milon in 1962 it was in a very sorry state with barely 17ha under vine.
Rothschild ownership saw the vineyards completely re-planted and the chais (and a chais is all there is, there never has been an actual château) renovated. Today the wines are made with the same meticulous care as Lafite, but sell at a fraction of the price, making Duhart-Milon a bit of a bargain.
Château Duhart-Milon sits immediately west/inland of Château Lafite-Rothschild, facing Château Lafon-Rochet across the Jalle du Breuil in Saint Estèphe. The 73ha of vineyard are planted with 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. The Grand Vin is aged in oak barrels made by the Rothschild cooperage for up to 18 months.
The second wine is called Moulin de Duhart, and a lighter styled third wine called Baron de Milon.
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Left Bank Bordeaux France
Deep colour with a blackish centre. After Carruades, this seems dumb on the nose. In the mouth the fruit is much more reminiscent of a wine like Lynch Bages than Lafite - thick and fruitcakey, rich and velvety, verging on lumpy after the extreme scented elegance of the Carruades, but the powerful intensity of the fruit and the coal-black and mineral middle keep it interesting to the end, and the fruit is still expressive and pure on the finish.
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Left Bank Bordeaux France
74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot. Tasted after the Merlot-dominated Carruades, this is a huge leap in class and sophistication, the very pure aristocratic Cabernet, bright blackcurrant with cherry overtones, giving an intense yet delicate palate and fine length.
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Left Bank Bordeaux France
Deeper and blacker than the Carruades, Duhart has a riper feel, with more wood evident, and a mid-palate of spice and cedar-scented solidity. Like the Carruades, this is quite taut, and finishes on lean black cherries.