Domaine Rémi Jobard
There have been a lot of changes at this domaine in the last ten or fifteen years, each another small step to the top of the quality tree. Rémi and his father have always done quite a lot of cordon pruning (in such a way as to limit initial yields enough that bud-thinning and green harvesting are not necessary), and this has been extended over the entire vineyard. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The entire domaine is certified organic from 2008. Rémi says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients. Remi has two vast new presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and is sure that this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour. One of the absolutely top domaines of the Côte de Beaune, and still at prices that are well, well below his qualitative equivalents.
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Côte Chalonnaise Burgundy France
Astonishing value, Aligoté yes, but from within the parish of Meursault and made by one of Meursault's greatest winemakers, this is fat as well as chiselled and freshly mineral.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Very good as ever; easy flow, lovely concentration of citrus and spiced green fruit.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Lush and bright at the same time. More mineral lift and joie de vivre than than Remi's earthier Vignes Rondes.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Pale, still very young and unevolved to taste, as has become the norm since Rémi decided to keep all his wines a second winter in tank. Taut citrus and tangy length. May begin to reveal itself more at our January tasting.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Quite sappy and broad, there is a sweetness in the mid-palate, followed by a long taut dry finish.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
A new wine in the Jobard Domaine portfolio, a vineyard from which Remi used to buy the crop. Very ripe inviting nose, ripe and round and quite a buttery and open style, clean and correct and good balance. Forty year-old vines.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
The ripeness here goes into a tightly defined exoticism, ripe and summery but still with good acidity. Lovely depth to this.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Fine and compact, intense and deep. Lemons and a fresh pure minerality. Firm, it needs three years.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Pale green-gold. Fresh and bright. Broad sweet fruit. Balanced appeal of purity of expression and roundness of the fruit.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Not enormously expressive on the nose, but the palate is lovely. Compact and dense while remaining taut and ripe. Very much on the citrus - lemons and minerals. Quite strict for Poruzots, very long, needs four of five years to really come out, there is lots of depth here, very fine
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Closed when tasted in November, a mildly almondy tension, taut and bright, wiry and long. This probably needs even more time than the Poruzots. As Rémi puts it, this is "more elegant than some other vintages, not as powerful as usual, a bit more in finesse". Intense, long.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Seeming more immediate and sunny and ripe, still with good acidity, it covers the palate in waves, fresh apple mixed with weighty layers and mineral lift. Realy lovely and very well-done. "Finer on the finish" as Rémi says.
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Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Pale green. Not yet clear, and with still some remains of fermentary aromas. Despite this backwardness, there is a real richness and density of flavour. Like a lifted cross between the airy Poruzots and the savoury density of the Chevalières. Bravo - needs time.