Domaine Thierry Mortet
Thierry continues to be praised in the French press without ever quite seeming to crack the influential American journalists. It may be simply because he is a bit short of fancy appellations - one little cuvée of Grand Cru would no doubt do his reputation a lot of good - but might also put his prices up, and these remain very modest. Three or four days of cold maceration are followed by two weeks of fermentation, with just a touch of cooling to keep the temperature around 31-33C (below 35, at least), then into barrel, all second use or older for the Bourgogne, with 30% new wood on the Gevrey, and 50% on the Clos Prieur. Certified organic and in biodynamic conversion.

Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Good deep colour, quite fat and round. Promising depth of flavour in this attractively round body. Entirely de-stemmed, as usual, and yet has a fine, sweet-tannined middle which I associate more with whole-bunch fermentation. Very good village wine.
Côte d'Or Burgundy France
Even more mass and volume than the straight village wine, and more weight on the mid-palate too. Dumber for now (tasted July 2010), and little gassy still. Suave and delicate, 'atypical for Gevrey', as Thierry says.





