POMMARD

2007 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Pommard
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Clos des Épeneaux

Benjamin explains how they intend to change the cuvées here, dividing them by the geology of the Clos rather than by vine age as before. The cuvée of upper part, from fifty-year-old vines, is firm, juicy, tense and linear, with floral aromatics and energetic power. Although it is long and nervy, it lacks a bit of bottom. The cuvée from the bottom part comprises 30 and 70 year-old vines. Immediately sweeter and riper, with sucrosity and roundness. Although expansive it seems less aromatically 'of its vintage' than the upper part, even Barolo-like in its hints of dark-cherry and bitter thick-skinned fruit. Together the two lots make a wine which is less huge than usual, but with an uncommon combination of depth and energy. Tasted after bottling, smooth and suave, more concentrated than the vintage in general (because the early hail in the Clos had reduced the yield to a tiny 23hl/ha). Really good, silky fine tannins, very expressive and lots of energy. L&S (Dec 2008)


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Pommard is an appellation known for making robust, some might say rustic-style red wines in the Côte de Beaune. But this wine is far from the stereotype. Its glorious, luscious elegance and rounded depth of flavor is atypical but loyal to the vintage, which was gloriously fruity. Made by the Comte Armand, the secret is the vineyard Clos des Epeneaux, a small, 5.23-hectare site that produces wines of real grace. Will Lyons, The Wall Street Journal (May 2012)

This is perhaps a bit more elegant than usual, it’s certainly more elegant than either the 2005 or the 2006 versions and reminds me a bit of the 2001 aromatically. An expressive nose of red berry fruit, earth and a hint of spice merges into cool, precise and vibrant medium full-bodied flavors that are supported by firm but ripe tannins on the linear, long and palate coating finish. This is really a lovely ’07 with good muscle and solid mid-palate concentration. 2015+ Rating: 91-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (May 2009)

Superb, complete Pommard with a pliant texture but plenty of structure for a positive evolution in bottle. This nuanced and beautifully balanced wine is 12.8% alcohol, a full degree lower than the 2005. Rating: 91-94 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Mar 2009)

Domaine Comte Armand

A domaine totalling nine hectares, of which the most important part is a magnificent five hectare monopole of the Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux, which was put together by Nicolas Marey in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (along with the DRC Romanée Saint Vivant 'Marey-Monge'). These vineyards were all sold, except for the Clos (it now been enclosed by a wall), which came to Jean-François Armand as a dowry when he married Nicolas' daughter in 1826. The Volnay vineyards were added in 1994, followed by parcels in Auxey Duresses.

The current Comte Armand is a lawyer living in Paris, but very supportive of the régisseurs who have looked after this domaine for the thirty years or so that L&S have been buying here. The 1980 vintage, made by one of the many Rossignols of Volnay who was in charge at the time, was for us a great introduction to the possibilities of the great Clos des Epeneaux vineyard. Then came the era of Pascal Marchand, a young Quebecois who came to do a harvest with Domaine Bruno Clair and just never left. He began a period of radical restructuring and the introduction of organic and then biodynamic farming, while making very dark, dense and long-lived wines. Benjamin Leroux, hugely respected amongst growers who approach things from an organic or biodynamic point of view, then took over, and refined this approach and changed the way the parcels of vines are divided up for harvesting, paying less attention to just the age of the vines, and more to the underlying soil types. Claude Bourguignon was employed to provide a full geological survey of the Clos as the basis for this. Under Benjamin the wines of the Clos gained in finesse and precision, while still having the depth and richness expected of a great Pommard.

Both Pascal and Benjamin were keen to expand beyond the confines of the Clos, and the Domaine also has vines in Volnay, and, a particular enthusiasm of both Pascal and Benjamin, in Auxey Duresses, where they are convinced of the great potential of some of this village's undervalued and neglected terroirs. Paul Zinetti, who had worked with Ben for four years, took over in 2014.

The vineyard is cultivated organically (ECOCERT certified) and biodynamically. The grapes are entirely de-stemmed, but left intact, for a five to eight-day cold maceration before the fermentation, which lasts five to ten days, and then the wine remains in the fermenters for between three and fifteen days, depending on the vintage. In most years, the total time with skin contact will be around four weeks, which is longer than most. The wines will then be aged in barrel for between eighteen and twenty-four months, with new wood limited to 30% for the wine from the old vines of the Clos, down to none at all for the village wines.

Paul said from the outset that he wanted to make to make a less tannic wine in the Clos, and one which is more about aromatic length. In this he is continuing the route that Ben was following, but perhaps taking it even further.

This wine isn't currently part of a mixed case, but you can always browse our full selection of mixed cases here.
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