CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT

The 2009 Suduiraut, aged in 55% new oak, is surprisingly closed at first but it soon awakens with aeration and begins revving its motor. It has a divine bouquet with honey, chamomile, yellow flowers and nectarine, building layer upon layer. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous opening, a beautiful razor-sharp line of acidity that effortlessly slices through all that pure botrytised fruit. Notes of quince and clementine emerge as it fans out wonderfully on the finish. It remains the benchmark Suduiraut of recent years. Period. 153gm/L residual sugar, 14.0% alcohol, 3.6gm/L total acidity. Tasted at the Suduiraut vertical at the château. Drinking range: 2020 - 2070 Rating: 98 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Mar 2019)

(93% semillon and 7% sauvignon blanc; 14% alcohol; 3.7 g/l total acidity; 160 g/l residual sugar) Bright yellow-gold. Downright spectacular nose displays intense aromas of ripe pineapple, caramelized banana, dried mango, saffron and honey. Then rich, fat and opulent, with an almost decadent sweetness to its flavors of ripe citrus fruit, pineapple, papaya and minerals. Lively acidity gives this large-scaled and rather powerful wine a seamless quality and an almost light touch, and extends the flavors on the long, pure finish. Made from fruit harvested in just four days from September 17 through 20, in three successive tries This 2009 should age extremely well, and your grandchildren may enjoy it as much as you will. Rating: 93-96 Ian d'Agata - Stephen Tanzer website

Despite the comparatively low percentage of Sauvignon Blanc, this is a restrained Sauternes, with impressive freshness and balance for its concentration. Flavours of honey, vanilla pod, banana and peach give this an exotic edge, with residual sugar of 150 grams per litre adding richness to the mid-palate. A wine that will give (slightly guilty) pleasure for years to come. 10+ years. Rating: 96 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com