SANDEMAN

When did Sandeman repackage this in a sort of bitters tapered bottle in clear glass suggesting the wine is bright red? The plastic foil (so much more difficult to peel off than the ones that seem to be metallic) goes over a glass stopper. And then, for good measure, a gold medallion is sunk into the glass. Deep sigh. So let's see how this long-loved wine actually tastes, ignoring its visual makeover. Bright orange transparent tawny. Smells on the cusp of too rancio and concentrated but it's sweet and charming on the palate. Smooth as a baby's bottom and eminently sippable without any food – probably best that way, in fact. Perhaps not as complex as the slightly cerebral Noval 10 year old but this would not disappoint someone looking for a super-smooth, light, long-wood-matured port – so long as they ignored the packaging. Drinking range: 2018 - 2024 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Dec 2020)

GOLD MEDAL - A true charmer, with delicacy and fragrance, beginning with notes of cucumber, orange zest and watermelon rind. Soft and elegant in texture, boasting treacle, red and black fruits enveloping the palate. 40% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Franca, 20% Tinta Barroca Rating: 95 Decanter World Wine Awards 2019 (May 2019)

Mouthfillingly smooth, yet effortlessly fresh, with flavours of dried apricot and fig, spice, walnuts, coffee and crème caramel. Drink lightly chilled with cheese, desserts or as a winter aperitif. Once opened, it will keep in the fridge, re-stoppered, for several weeks. Joanna Simon, www.joannasimon.com (Dec 2018)

An engagingly slender style, with lovely savoury and toasty aromas unfolding onto a delicate, very gentle palate, panning out to a long, dainty finish. Rating: 90 Decanter Magazine (Dec 2017)

Sits in the glass with an amber hue, offering wonderful hits of red fruit, spice and toasted notes. The one to savour after the Christmas meal.Will Lyons, The Sunday Times (Dec 2016)

A ruddy hue with a marked freshness to nose and palate and clean finish. It displays classic dried fruit (plum, apricot, orange peel) and nut (hazelnut and toasted almond) flavours with delicate barley sugar and salt caramel nuances, which amplify with time in glass. Very well balanced indeed.Sarah Ahmed, www.thewinedetective.co.uk (Dec 2016)

Much paler than the 10 Year Old, like the skin of Victoria plums. Gentle apricot aroma. This is where tawny starts to come into its own. Silky and plum-fruited with the kick on the finish. Drinking range: 2015 - 2017 Rating: 16.5/20 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Oct 2015)

Amber with a coppery flash. A very appealing nose, still amazingly fresh and vibrant. There are plenty of dried red berry characters, with raisin and dried flowers, sweet toasted nuts and gentle spice. Tasting bright and vivid for a 20 year old. Rating: Silver Outstanding International Wine & Spirit Competition 2014 (Oct 2014)