2009 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Meursault
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Poruzot Dessus

Like the Chevalieres, a touch of smoke. A sense of ripe citrus. Total purity of fruit and mineral on the palate. Builds to a considerable richness, finish still a little tight.

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Dark and brooding. Dense, rich and full. It is peachy and fruity with a clear bold frame. It is Porusots, but has purity to it. More bullish on the firm finish. Particualrly good+. From 2013

Pale, bright yellow. Reticent, pure aromas of white peach and lemon. Intensely flavored and weightless, with nicely integrated acidity giving shape and grip to the citrus and spice flavors. Nothing heavy about this bright 2009.
90 - 93/100

A bit more drive and urgency on this than on most of this producer’s whites. Should be a sound longer term bet with some real structure and minerality. And length. In spades. 2015-2019

This is quite primal on the nose with green apple and a touch of nettle. Moderate definition. The palate is clean and crisp with very ripe green apple, pear and dandelion, refined towards the finish. Fine.

Lean piquant citric nose, with pungent lime aromas. Rich, full-bodied, and concentrated, but firm extract gives plenty of grip; assertive and tight, with good acidity and fine potential. Drink 2012-2022.

A more complex though not more elegant nose that is cool yet ripe with good freshness to the green fruit and lemon juice infused aromas that merge seamlessly into rich, voluminous and very lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess a taut muscularity on the extract rich and mouth coating finish. This is a bit rustic though there is certainly good flavor authority. 2014+

The 2009 Meursualt Poruzots Au Dessus is a beautifully pointed, articulated wine graced with endless finesse and sophistication. It shows wonderful nuance and transparency in its bright, crystalline fruit. Initially rather reserved, the wine turns richer and more exuberant on the mid-palate and finish. Clean, saline notes add the final layers of complexity. This is all about subtlety and nuance. I wish I had had more time to follow it, as the wine continued to improve as it opened up in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.

The fruit on the nose is sweet and ripe yet there is a lot of freshness behind. Greengage and melon are backed by honey nicely balanced by citrus and apple. The back palate has an attractive mix of flavours. 2012-16


Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The entire domaine is certified organic from 2008. Rémi says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients. Remi has two vast new presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and is sure that this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour. One of the absolutely top domaines of the Côte de Beaune, and still at prices that are well, well below his qualitative equivalents.

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