2009 ACÚSTIC BLANC Bodegas Acústic

Acustic’s latest collection is uniformly outstanding. There is one white wine, the 2009 Acustic Blanc, a blend of 60% Garnacha Blanca and 3 indigenous varieties with 30% of the wine barrel-fermented and aged in French oak for 3 months. Light gold-colored, it exhibits an alluring nose of baking spices, buttered popcorn, peach skin, and tropical aromas. This is followed by a rich, smooth-textured, spicy wine that has good balancing acidity and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Drink this outstanding value over the next 3 years.   91/100

Garnacha and Samsó (Cariñena) drive the red blends of this boutique winery, owned by Albert Jané on the periphery of Priorat. Montsant is bound to suffer from the prestige and pumped-up prices of its neighbour, but Acústic proves that when a winery focuses on the terroir (well-drained stones and sand) and the vines (up to 75 years old), it can make exceptional wines that the world can afford to drink. Alas Acústic's tiny production will never be widely available. The newest arrival in the stable is this unique, complex Rhône-style white.

(60% garnatxa blanca, 25% macabeu, 10% garnatxa and 5% pansal) Light yellow-gold. Pungent, mineral-driven nose hints at fresh pear, tangerine and white peach, with toasty lees, chamomile and iodine qualities adding complexity. Juicy and tight, with bracing acidity and a strong iodine character to its deep orchard fruit flavors. This could pass for a very serious white Burgundy. Finishes firm and spicy, with the mineral element repeating. A remarkable value.   92/100