2010 CROZES HERMITAGE Cuvée Papillon Domaine Gilles Robin

There could hardly be a more appetising introduction to 2010 northern Rhône red than this early drinking cuvée from the energetic Gilles Robin of Mercurol. It sees no oak and is bottled in May, after light micro-oxygenation to avoid the reduction to which Syrah is prone, according to John Livingstone-Learmonth in his superb The Wines of the Northern Rhône, and the idea is to provide us with pure pleasure. I would love to drink this any time over the next two years, but can’t see much point in ageing it because it is already so pure and flattering with admirably polished tannins and lovely sappy fruit. This is obviously a particularly ripe vintage so is wonderfully accessible already. At 13% alcohol, it is slightly stronger than some northern Rhône wines but hardly excessive.

Bright purple. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the nose and palate, with a subtle peppery note adding bite. Smooth and open-knit wine with good finishing punch and a gentle touch of warmth. This easygoing, forward wine is already drinking well.   88

Made from young vines for early drinking, this is smoky and earthy, with a cool, herby, mint leaf lift. It has a certain meatiness and a juicy, sweet fruited mid-palate, and it is long and really nicely balanced, with a freshness to the acid and tannin structure, but a cherry delicacy too. A delight.