This is very rare (as it is only made when exceptional vintages permit) it is the only fully botrytised wine made by Thévenet. It is fabulous, I am immediately reminded of my mother's wonderful homemade marmalade - pure but amazingly intense with little zips of apricot in the background. Gauthier explained as we tasted - that it is impossible to have good results with late harvest Chardonnay as the acidity levels drop right off if you leave the fruit out too long, however, the botryitis they get in certain years in this particular plot concentrates the sugar but maintains the acidtiy you want - this keeps it all so perky, yet rich and intense. Harvested berry by berry this epic wine has to go by the name Macon Villages as it breaks the rules for Viré Clessé but this is unlike any other Macon Villages you will ever try - a real rare gem.
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(from 100% botrytis-affected fruit, picked berry by berry): Bright orange-gold. Incredible high-toned aromas of dried apricot, honey and molasses, plus a damp bottom-of-a-flight-of-stone-steps note I normally associate with Tokaj. Tactile, supersweet (138 g/l r.s.) and salty, but a wine of great finesse owing to its concentration of acidity. Wonderfully rich and smooth on the extremely long, elegant finish. The Thévenets are just starting to sell this wine; Gautier noted that they made a good quantity in 2006: between 2,500 and 3,000 bottles, mostly in 750-ml. format. An amazing thing to do with Chardonnay. Incidentally, Thévenet told me that 2006 was the last big botrytis year, although 2010 and 2013 also brought meaningful quantities of noble rot. (375 ml.)
Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Dec 2015)
Domaine de la Bon Gran: Full Wine List and Profile
Jean Thévenet's original and flagship domaine, in which he makes wines which are rich and ripe and are given no oak at all, and yet which still manage to be the most complex and satisfying wines of the Maconnais. The main cuvée we ship is his top 'dry' cuvée, called 'Sélection EJ Thévenet', which is now called Viré-Clessé. He also makes tiny quantities of the highly sought-after Cuvée Levroutée, a late-harvest just touched by botrytis with the constitution and depth of a Montrachet, and infinitesimal amounts of his Cuvée Botrytis, a fully sweet Sélection des Grains Nobles style. Organic production.
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