Larmandier-Bernier numbers among the Côte de Blanc's—and Champagne's—finest estates. Based in Vertus, the Larmandier family farm organically and harvest late, vinifying the resulting wines in wood. The result is vinous, elegantly muscular Champagnes that are concentrated but precise. In a region that still produces far too many meager, brittle wines, Larmander-Bernier reminds us of the plenitude and texture of which great Champagne is capable. The range begins with two non-vintage Blanc de Blancs: Latitude, broad and charming; and Longitude, more chiseled and incisive. Next come three vintage cuvées: Vieille Vigne de Levant, from Cramant; Les Chemins d’Avize, from the eponymous village; and the Terre de Vertus. Two perfumed rosé de saignée cuvées complement the portfolio, now joined by small quantities of still red and white Côteaux Champenois. As remarkable for their consistency as their quality, any wine that bears this family’s label is well worth seeking out William Kelley, The Wine Advocate  (Mar 2021)

Pierre and Sophie Larmandier craft dramatic, vinous wines of real personality and class. All of these wines need quite a bit of time to be at their best, meaning at least several hours of air. I typically am not a fan of decanting Champagne, but I would be tempted to do that with these wines when opening bottles several hours in advance is not practical. Sustainable farming practices, indigenous fermentations and ageing in cask are some of the cornerstones of an approach that yields distinctly potent, textured wines full of character. Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com  (Dec 2018)