Charles Lea's Wine List
Wines I Like - Autumn
As ever seasonality if the key for me. Yes you can go on drinking rosé, but for me it's time to turn to some decent White Burgundy to get a dinner party started or to go with fish in a bit of a sauce which might be more appealing than plain-grilled as the weather turns damper.In much the same way, fuller-bodied Champagnes come into their own, when those that seemed just right in bright sunshine somehow seem a bit sharp and brittle in the cold. Look for the ripeness and roundness of Barnaut, Gonet-Médeville, and, if you can afford it and we still have any left, Egly-Ouriet - and watch this space for some new suggestions too.
For Reds too, a slightly fuller-bodied red which might have a bit more in the way of spice or smokiness is more what I feel like than the bright and juicy wines which were so good out of an ice-bucket in August. Rioja, which we've been promoting all October, fits this bill perfectly, and as we get into the full flow of the game season, Claret and Burgundy are never going to be far from the mind - and for Italophiles, neither will Barbera and Nebbiolo from Piedmont, or any Tuscan Sangiovese.
Weekend treat: surprise your weekend guests with a neglected classic:- a wonderful ten year-old dry Madeira.
2018 SANGIOVESE Girapoggio Bissoni
Emilia Romagna Italy 13% Red
Sangiovese. Practicing Organic
From up in the hills of Emilia-Romagna, this is always so much fun, sleek and pure with cherry, tobacco, plum and mocha aromas and flavours. Unencumbered by oak, it delivers a bright, direct and easy drinking style.
L&S
2018 XÉRICO Tentenublo
Alavesa Rioja Spain 14% Red
Tempranillo, Viura.
Roberto Oliván's 'very own house wine', the Xerico is co-fermented Tempranillo and Viura, resulting in a spicy, slightly 'sauvage' wine, with an incredible freshness and energy from whole bunch fermentation. Sligh...(read more)
L&S
2019 ACÚSTIC BLANC Acústic Celler
Catalunya Spain 14.5% White
Macabeo, Garnacha.
Albert's Acustic blanc is always a textural masterpiece, with it's quince, pear and honey notes, it has quite a rich textural feel in the mouth, but is always balanced with a delicious ripe acidity.
L&S
2019 MÂCON VILLAGES Clos Saint Pancras Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Mâconnais Burgundy France 12.8% White
Chardonnay. Vegetarian, Practicing Organic, Vegan
This was bottled on the 28th August, and is 12.8%. Aged entirely in large foudres. Bright and fresh and full of expressive juicy fruit - everything is more concentrated than the 2018 - and the acidity is excellent giving...(read more)
L&S
2018 RAPOSO Rioja Sierra de Toloño
Rioja Alavesa Rioja Spain 13.5% Red
Tempranillo, Graciano. Practicing Organic
Sourced from two deep-rooted, 60 and 100-year-old organic vineyards situated around 500m above sea level in Villabuena de Álava, this pristine, unfined, unfiltered, small production (just 6,500 bottles) field blen...(read more)
James Viner, Times of Tunbridge Wells
2020 KRATOS Fiano Luigi Maffini
Campania Italy 14% White
Fiano. Certified Organic
The 2020 Fiano Kratos blends honeyed florals with ripe pears, apricot and mint nuances, filling the palate with fleshy, round textures and vibrant acidity. The combination of power, energy and fruit is something to behol...(read more)
Eric Guido, www.vinous.com
2018 SAINT VÉRAN En Crèches Domaine Daniel Barraud
Mâconnais Burgundy France 13.5% White
Chardonnay.
This vineyard's fantastic position up high and facing south east, as well as its rock-laden soil really show the class of this site in warm vintages. The vines here are now 37 years old and the 2018 is a total triumph. F...(read more)
L&S
2018 ROSSO DI MONTALCINO Padelletti
Tuscany Italy 13.5% Red
.
Another soaring beauty from Padelletti, layered aromatics of dried flowers, herbs and plums, that remain poised and gentle. In the mouth there is a dark fruitiness, cherry and plum, just a hint of savouriness and then th...(read more)
L&S
2019 CHABLIS 1er Cru Fourchaume Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin
Chablis Burgundy France 12.5% White
Chardonnay.
Less simply fruity than the straight Chablis but still with ripe citrus and even stone fruits. A good bite of freshness rounded out by the smooth, leesy texture. An attractively sour freshness on the finish.
Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com
2020 LANGHE NEBBIOLO Sottimano
Piedmont Italy 13% Red
Nebbiolo. Practicing Organic
Another stonker of a wine from Andrea that punches way above its pay grade. Gorgeous concentration, dark fruit, cherry and damson, some aromatic herbs and spice with dried rose petals adding a gentle florality. In the mo...(read more)
L&S
2015 TERRAZZE CHIANTI CLASSICO Riserva Castagnoli
Chianti Tuscany Italy 14.5% Red
Sangiovese. Certified Organic
Grown in very hard-to-manage narrow terraces on a precipitous slope, with each vine on a pole, so everything has to be done by hand. Undoubtedly hideously hard work but the result is one of the most complete and refined...(read more)
L&S
BARNAUT Grande Réserve Brut Grand Cru Bouzy NV
Champagne France 13% White
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir. Vegetarian
*Was £32.95*
All from Grand Cru vineyards of Bouzy, two-thirds Pinot and one third Chardonnay, full style with balance and brightness to support the rich flavour. Rapidly becom...(read more)
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