France, Bordeaux

Few names are more iconic in Bordeaux than Petrus – little known 50 years ago, today it is often the most expensive wine from the region. It is a post World War II story in large part, and the story of two incredible people – Madame Loubat, owner of the l’Hotel Loubat in Libourne who between 1925 and the end of the War gradually acquired full ownership of Petrus convinced of the inherent quality of the estate; and the far-sighted Jean-Pierre Moueix who acquired exclusive selling rights to Petrus in 1945. Obsessive commitment to and absolute faith in the quality of Petrus built its reputation steadily – it was said to be a favourite wine of the Kennedys who were introduced to it in New York’s exclusive Le Pavillon restaurant; the seminal 1982 vintage further cemented its status and the onward endorsement by Robert Parker et al made it the thing of legend – so by the time Jean-Pierre Moueix retired in 1978, Petrus was the most prestigious property on the Right Bank and selling for First Growth prices. By then the Moueix family owned Petrus, having gradually bought out Mme Loubat’s heirs after her death in 1961. Since then Petrus’s reputation has continued to advance and is only challenged, perhaps, by Pomerol garagiste extraordinaire Le Pin. Unlike the First Growths of the Haut-Médoc, there is no grand château at Petrus – it’s all about the vineyard. At 40m above sea-level, this is the highest point in Pomerol, on a hill-top of deep clay soil that is ideal for high quality Merlot. Merlot makes up 95% of the plantings, and often 100% of the wine, the odd 5% of Cabernet Franc only making it into the cuvée when necessary. Vines average around 40 years old, and are only replaced at 70 years old. Grapes are hard-harvested in a manner that would not look out of place in Sauternes with individual berries (as opposed to whole bunches) being picked at optimum ripeness. Wines are aged in 100% new oak for 22-28 months. There is no second wine at Petrus.