"Criminologist Jesús Barquín, who founded the hand-picked collection of numbered La Bota labels with Eduardo Ojeda of Valdespino, was in London last summer with new releases and some older wines designed to show that we need not worry too much about drinking up pale, dry sherries Fino and Manzanilla immediately after bottling, even from half bottles. So long as they are good quality, of course." Jancis Robinson OBE MW, www.JancisRobinson.com L&S