Hungary, Tokaji

A sweet paste, or aszú, is produced from grapes wizened by botrytis, and the more puttonyos (tubs) of berries used, the sweeter, richer, and rarer the Tokaji. Matured in tunnels once dug to foil Turkish invasion, the wines are released four years after the vintage. Royal Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos has aromas of caramelised marmalade, apricoty, almondy flavours, and a honeyed sweetness. It is heavenly with foie gras, blue cheese, fruity puds and chocolate, or with a lovely fat cigar. Tokaji has restorative properties too; according to archives, it is 'invaluable in cases of extreme weakness' 'recommended for rousing the powers' and 'the wine that removes the screws from the coffin lid'. Who needs Viagra.' Harpers & Queen July 1998, Sarah Thornton.