SANDEMAN

The 1963 Sandeman Vintage Porto has a bewitching bouquet with mulberry, cloves, allspice and balsam that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with great tension. There is a fine edginess here, an uncommon sense of brio with dried fig and dried prune; then with further aeration, white pepper and cloves. It gently builds in the mouth and leads you to a very elegant and refined finish that will last another decade at least. Stylish and suave, this is somewhat predictably the best Sandeman of this era. Drink now-2030. Drinking range: 2014 - 2030 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2014)

There is still a trace of crimson in the pale rose red here! Quite intense and fat on the nose with masses of ripe fruit. Lots of intensity and just coming into its own! What a marvel. Now this is what vintage port should taste like: vigorous and mellow but with lots of potential for further development too. Clean and very ripe. Great freshness. But also intense fruit. Difficult to believe this is 50 years old. Hint of liquorice. Drinking range: 1995 - 2050 Rating: 18.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2014)

This may be one of the most underrated '63s made. Its deep red color gives little indication of the wine's age, and there is an abundance of youthful, rich fruit on the nose and palate. Full tannins and an assertive finish back up everything. Rating: 96 James Suckling, The Wine Spectator (Jan 2009)