CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE
2003 Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Domaine de la Mordorée
|Village||Châteauneuf du Pape|
A wine I’ve been lucky enough to have numerous times recently, the 2003 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée de La Reine des Bois is gorgeous. Quite possibly the wine of the vintage, it shows thrilling levels of blackberry, liquorice, toasted bread, and garrigue to go with a full-bodied, massive, yet layered and seamless feel on the palate. There’s none of the rusticity or coarse tannin that’s common in the vintage, and it possesses beautiful purity, sweetness of fruit and length. Rating: 97-97 Jeb Dunnuck - www.robertparker.com (Aug 2014)
*Case Price: Mix any 12 bottles of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Subtle it ain't. Christophe Delorme believes his 2003s are as good as his 2001s, which received rave reviews, and possibly better. This very rich wine is embryonic now and seems to me to have just a very slight hole on the mid palate. Drink 2009-16 Rating: 18 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com (Feb 2006)
2003 was a challenging vintage for Chateauneuf du Pape, but the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois (70% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, and the rest equal parts Cinsault, Counoise, Syrah, and Vaccarese) is extraordinary. I had wondered if the culling out of a special lot for the La Plume du Peintre would have any impact on the Cuvee de la Reine des Bois, but it has not. This is stunning Chateauneuf du Pape with an inky ruby/purple color and a sweet nose of blackberries, camphor, licorice, spice box, and violets. The wine is full-bodied, rich and layered, and similar in style to the 2001. It's a beauty, and should drink well for 15 or more years. Rating: 96-96 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, www.RobertParker.com (Mar 2005)
Domaine de la Mordorée
Started in 1986 by the Delorme family, Domaine de la Mordorée has become one of the top estates in the Rhône, with arguably the most consistent quality. The word 'Mordorée', literally 'bronze' or 'golden-brown' is one of the many poetic names for a woodcock, the symbol of the domaine. Other such names include the cuvée names - 'La Belle Voyageuse' (the beautiful traveller), and 'La Dame Rousse' (the russet lady). Founding winemaker Christophe Delorme's objective as a winemaker was to be unintrusive and maintain total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces, striving to achieve a perfect balance between concentration, terroir and balance.
The domaine consists of 55 Hectares, on 38 different parcels, providing a rich, wide range of soils and climates. Seeking to make the minimum long-term impact on nature, they practiced culture raisonnée'.
Christophe's approach was so 'raisonnée' that he held back from being fully organic because he was worried about the long-term effect of putting too much copper (the form of copper sulphate, a permitted treatment in organic viticulture) onto his vineyards. Now due to the improvements on formulations, and work done in disease prevention, they can use copper sulphate with very low concentrations, these levels are not impacting the soils.
The whole domaine has been certified organic since 2007.
Following Christophe's untimely death in 2015, his wife and daughter, Madeleine and Ambre, have taken on the running of the domaine, ably assisted by his brother Fabrice and Rémy Chauvet, who was the cellarmaster under Christophe. As Jeb Dunnuck has put it in the Wine Advocate, 'the estate is obviously still in incredibly capable hands'.
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