2003 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Clos des Épeneaux|
Benjamin explained that a relatively healthy 35 hl/ha ‘on the vine’ became a mere 27hl/ha in the vat because so much was discarded in the sorting - cutting out all the burnt grapes. The old vines did well, putting up with the heat better than the younger ones, so that the old vines cuvée, tasted separately at this stage, will be over 50% of the final wine. As a cuvée it is very densely, velvety rich and grand - a super style, all ripe black fruit but with precision. The ‘young vines’ cuvée, (from vines that are about 25 years old) will be declassified to Pommard 1er Cru - a real depth of intense sweet red-berry fruit, nevertheless. The 26-70 year old vines will provide a structured, powerful and serious wine - regal in the grandest, most ceremonial style. L&S (Mar 2005)
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‘Very firm, concentrated nose. Lots of density and no shortage of acidity and tannin. This is slightly more like the old Comte Armand style, but with an additional smoothness. Dry finish. It may take on weight. Already quite full, convincing and round. Powerful cherry flavours with structure and some appetizing vegetal character. 17.5/20’ www.jancisrobinson.comJancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Oct 2011)
The older vines were more productive than the youthful ones this year. So a higher proportion in the final blend. A very fine, rich, full and concentrated wine. Full-bodied and tannic. Surprisingly classic underneath. Very long. Very lovely. From 2012. Clive Coates, The Vine 241Clive Coates MW (Mar 2005)
Domaine Comte Armand
A domaine totalling nine hectares, of which the most important part is a magnificent five hectare monopole of the Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux, which was put together by Nicolas Marey in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (along with the DRC Romanée Saint Vivant 'Marey-Monge'). These vineyards were all sold, except for the Clos (now been enclosed by a wall), which came to Jean-François Armand as a dowry when he married Nicolas' daughter in 1826. The Volnay vineyards were added in 1994, followed by parcels in Auxey Duresses.
The current Comte Armand is a lawyer living in Paris, but very supportive of the régisseurs who have looked after this domaine for the thirty years or so that L&S have been buying here. The 1980 vintage, made by one of the many Rossignols of Volnay who was in charge at the time, was for us a great introduction to the possibilities of the great Clos des Epeneaux vineyard. Then came the era of Pascal Marchand, a young Quebecois who came to do a harvest with Domaine Bruno Clair and just never left. He began a period of radical restructuring and the introduction of organic and then biodynamic farming, while making very dark, dense and long-lived wines. Benjamin Leroux, hugely respected amongst growers who approach things from an organic or biodynamic point of view, then took over, and refined this approach and changed the way the parcels of vines are divided up for harvesting, paying less attention to just the age of the vines, and more to the underlying soil types. Claude Bourguignon was employed to provide a full geological survey of the Clos as the basis for this. Under Benjamin the wines of the Clos gained in finesse and precision, while still having the depth and richness expected of a great Pommard.
Both Pascal and Benjamin were keen to expand beyond the confines of the Clos, and the Domaine also has vines in Volnay, and, a particular enthusiasm of both Pascal and Benjamin, in Auxey Duresses, where they are convinced of the great potential of some of this village's undervalued and neglected terroirs. Paul Zinetti, who had worked with Ben for four years, took over in 2014.
The vineyard is cultivated organically (ECOCERT certified) and biodynamically. The grapes are entirely de-stemmed, but left intact, for a five to eight-day cold maceration before the fermentation, which lasts five to ten days, and then the wine remains in the fermenters for between three and fifteen days, depending on the vintage. In most years, the total time with skin contact will be around four weeks, which is longer than most. The wines will then be aged in barrel for between eighteen and twenty-four months, with new wood limited to 30% for the wine from the old vines of the Clos, down to none at all for the village wines.
Paul said from the outset that he wanted to make to make a less tannic wine in the Clos, and one which is more about aromatic length. In this he is continuing the route that Ben was following, but perhaps taking it even further.
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