CHÂTEAU PAVIE MACQUIN

Edges of gunsmoke, tobacco and liquorice on the first nose, this feels significantly younger than the 2002 vintage, and you need a little more patience to wait out those drawn-together tannins that are holding the cassis and blueberry fruits in place. The juice and salinity though is already mouthwatering, giving a scrape and a push that both propels you forward and drags you back. These are physical wines in the mouth, which is why they are so exciting. Part of the cool vintages series within this vertical, and a great example of why great terroir can overperform in more challenging years. 80% new oak. Drinking range: 2022 - 2042 Rating: 93 Jane Anson, Decanter (Jan 2022)

The 2004 Pavie-Macquin is not especially complex or nuanced, but it is exquisitely delicious and also a fabulous choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Leather, spice, chocolate and licorice fill out the layers effortlessly. More than anything else, the 2004 is a wine of total pleasure. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029 Rating: 94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2020)

(14% alcohol; pH 3.47): Deep red. Refined aromas of ripe red cherry and strawberry jam complicated by notes of rosemary, marjoram and cocoa. Suave, rich and dense, with savory red cherry, licorice and herb flavors showing lovely balance and surprising flesh for the vintage. Finishes long and rich, with mouthcoating, polished tannins. A major success in 2004; perhaps just a touch lean at the back. The estate opted for full maturity of the grapes and risked picking in between the fall rains. For example, the cabernets were picked extremely late, between October 18 and 28. Very well done. Rating: 91 Ian d'Agata, www.vinousmedia.com (Mar 2014)