VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN

The 2004 Vieux Château Certan is an important one in my opinion, since it is the first whereby Alexandre Thienpont surpasses the limitations of the growing season, producing one of the best Right Bank wines you will find. Now beginning to show signs of ageing on the rim, it has an intense, more Merlot driven bouquet with wild strawberry, black truffle, hints of burnt toast and truffle. The tannins appear to be softening on the palate that is not as concentrated as the 2005 or 2009 of course, but there is admirable body and density here with some sinew towards the finish that will mellow with time. The aftertaste offers hints of sage and rosemary, completely a very satisfying 2004 Pomerol that should give a couple of decade’s drinking pleasure. Tasted at the Wine Source VCC dinner at The Square. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Mar 2022)

This is a triumph of wine over vintage: Alexandre Thienpont having to pass through the vineyard six times in order to pick the grapes. It was worthwhile because this is one of the outstanding wines of the vintage, driven by the Cabernet Franc (30%). A delectable nose with wonderful purity and exuberant, peppery Cabernet Franc with touches of tar and roasted chestnuts inflected the black fruits. The palate is medium-bodied, very good weight, almost sinewy in fact, with vibrant acidity and a slight hardness on the finish that should melt away with time. It has a relatively dry finish, which leaves the palate eager for the next sip and improving all the time in my glass so that the final dregs are the finest. Superb. Drink 2015-2030+. Tasted November 2008. Drinking range: 2015 - 2030 Rating: 94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Nov 2008)

This stunning blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc boasts a dense ruby/purple color along with a big, sweet bouquet of black cherries, licorice, roasted herbs, smoke, and cassis. Elegant, medium to full-bodied, pure flavors reveal moderately high tannin, but superb concentration and richness. Vieux Chateau Certan should be one of the longer-lived and most complex wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. Drinking range: 2012 - 2025 Rating: 93+ Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, www.RobertParker.com (Nov 2007)