2006 1er Grand Cru Classé Saint Emilion
|Sub-district||Saint Emilion & Satellites|
|Classification||1er Grand Cru Classé|
Fresh and cool, harmonious but reserved, mineral class on the mid-palate and good weight and purity, the style here is for wines that are so restrained when young that they are often hard to see amongst the boisterous thick wines, but this is completely harmonious and will be lovely. Rating: 91-91 L&S (Apr 2007)
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Atop the limestone plateau of St Emilion, and just west of the village, is Château Canon. Originally named Clos St Martin, the vineyard was bought by privateer and naval man Jacques Kanon in 1760. He expanded the vineyard beyond the original clos walls and built the château, but sold up after 10 years of tenure to the Fontémoing family. At some point, they also owned Château Canon in Fronsac which may account for the current name for the St Emilion estate, but it is more likely named for the dashing Jacques Kanon – either way, the owners of the Fronsac estate were not best pleased when Clos St Martin morphed into Château Canon in 1853. For most of the 20th Century, Château Canon was owned by the Fournier family but their tenure was one of gradual and sad decline. In 1996, they sold up to Alain and Gerard Wertheimer who had not long purchased Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux. Fortunately, the Wertheimers, owners of Chanel, had the wherewithal to attend to Canon’s many problems. A long term programme of complete replanting of the vineyards was started and the winery was completely renewed. The vineyard area has been expanded by the purchase of a couple of near-by plots. The, now, 34ha are planted with 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. Opinions on Château Canon’s wines can be mixed, although tasters views may be tainted by memories of disappointing wines from the recent past. There is little denying that quality has improved considerably under the Wertheimers. In the 1996 St Emilion classification, Château Canon was granted Premier Grand Cru Classé (B) status, something re-affirmed by the 2006 and 2012 revisions. The second wine of Château Canon, first produced in 2000, was Clos Canon but will be known as Croix Canon from the 2011 vintage.
The 2006 Château Canon has a vivid, kirsch and wild strawberry bouquet with touches of orange zest and marmalade, a touch of mushroom in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe black cherry and blackcurrant fruit, sage and melted tar. There is wonderful structure here, superb salinity, completely fulfilling the promise it demonstrated out of bottle. Perhaps yes, I was a little over-enthusiastic at that time, but after ten years it has foraged wonderful focus and vivacity. Seek this out. Tasted January 2016. Drinking range: 2016 - 2030 Rating: 93-93 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com (May 2016)
Good ruby-red. Pure, high-pitched aromas of blackberry, violet and mint. Supple but vinous, with an attractively juicy quality to flavors of black fruits, licorice, violet and minerals. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and a note of iron. On the light side but nicely balanced and attractive. Rating: 87-90 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (May 2007)
Balanced and fruity, with a lovely silky texture and sweet, ripe fruit. Long and caressing. Refined and harmonious. Rating: 89-91 James Suckling, The Wine Spectator (May 2007)
A sweet, ripe, fleshy effort with soft tannins, impressive concentration, and sexy, up-front aromas of black cherries, herbs, crushed rocks, and spring flowers, this medium-bodied St.-Emilion will undoubtedly put on more weight will additional cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Rating: 89-92 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, www.RobertParker.com (May 2007)
Gentle, elegant weight and style. Fruit pure and fresh. Stylistically affirmed but a little fluid on the finish. 2014-20. Rating: *** www.decanter.com (Apr 2007)
Paler than most. Mild, ripe toasty nose - well balanced though not intense. Lightly tarry - not that much fruit on the mid palate and pretty drying tannins on the finish. A little bit hollow? 2013-19 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2007)
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