CHÂTEAU CANON LA GAFFELIÈRE

This is one of the most impressive wines yet from Stephan von Neipperg’s revitalised estate. Unlike many St Emilions in 2009, it is harmonious and poised with enough acidity to balance the ripe, textured fruit. This is restrained and elegant, with lovely use of oak, considerable grace and beautifully integrated tannins. Likely to be reasonably priced, too. 10+ years. Rating: 95 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (May 2010)

(a blend of 55% merlot, 35% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon; 34 hectoliters per hectare; 90% new oak; 14% alcohol) Ruby-purple. Perfumed nose offers pure dark berries, herbs and licorice lifted by a peppery nuance. Then sweet and spicy in the mouth, with very good intensity of black fruit flavor and a coffee-and-chocolate impression of ripeness. Perhaps deceptively easygoing today, finishing with good fruity persistence, a touch of warmth and hints of tar and licorice. Rating: 89-92 Ian d'Agata, www.vinousmedia.com (May 2010)

Proprietor Stephan von Neipperg has made so many terrific wines at this estate since the late 1980s, it’s hard to say that the 2009 is going to turn out to be the finest, but did it show well on the four separate times I tasted it! A final blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, and a whopping 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (somewhat unusual for this area of St.-Emilion), the natural alcohol was 14%. Stephane Derenoncourt is the long-time wine consultant at all of Stephan von Neipperg’s estates. Yields were shockingly low here, 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is a beauty of both elegance and power. Dark ruby/purple, with notes of incense, sweet cedar, black cherry jam, cassis, and blackberry as well as licorice and subtle smoke, this wine has superb texture, a full-bodied mouthfeel, stunning concentration, and not a hard edge to be found. It is one of those remarkable 2009s with amazing power and density, but also tremendous finesse, precision, and freshness, an anomaly in itself. This wine should drink well for 15-20 years, based on the fact that the 1990, a vintage far lower in acidity and not nearly as concentrated, is still at the top of its game. Bravo! Rating: 94-96 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, www.RobertParker.com (Apr 2010)

Tasted at Canon-la-Gaffeliere, cropped between 1st and 10th October at 34hl/ha, this is a blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 90% new oak, the bouquet takes a great deal of coaxing from the glass, reluctantly offereing blackberry, raspberry coulis, a scent of wet clay and mulberry. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, off-dry, good weight in the mouth and fine definition, perhaps a little more austere than I anticipated but I like that (the coolness of the sample accentuating the tannins here.) A touch of savoury fruit towards the grainy finish, very good length and harmony, the pH plays a fundamental role in balancing the finish and engendering such freshness. Excellent. Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2010)

A very dark wine here, totally in keeping for this estate. The palate is initially withdrawn, but opens out into a style that has a slightly gamey, oak -tinged character. There is a lot of good substance on the palate, with broad and dark fruits, underpinned by lots of tannic grip. The fruit has a very lush, soft, rich style, but also good acidity. No overtly expressed alcohol. Rather it is warm, huge, but balanced. A very good wine and perhaps an example of how the style of the vintage can help those estates where extraction is traditionally high. Or is the extraction itself reined in? Very good. Rating: 17-18+ Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2010)

Blackish crimson. Fragrant, even lightly soapy. Well integrated and relaxed. Fine boned. More acdity on the finish than one might expect so not super-stunning but pretty good. Some might find this eviscerated. I think it’s quite elegant. 2015-2025 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2010)

As always, beautifully constructed. Perfect pitch of ripeness, fresh, satisfying with a fine tannic frame. Elegant and harmonious. Drink 2016-2030. Rating: ****17.5 www.decanter.com (Apr 2010)

The Cabernet Franc really comes out here, with roasted berry, coffee bean and citrus following through to blackberry. Full-bodied, with fabulous concentration of fruit and supersoft tannins, a long, long finish. This is so juicy and wonderful. No dry tannins here. Rating: 94-97 James Suckling, The Wine Spectator (Mar 2010)