CORTON CLOS DU ROI
2009 Grand Cru Domaine Chandon de Briailles
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Corton Clos du Roi|
In July I noted: rich. Really rich. A real bulk in the wine, initially it is almost brutal, but then roundly imposing. Seems alcoholically rich too - I wonder if I do not prefer the Bressandes today. By September it was tight and mildly reductive, but also incredibly open. Round with a totally silky texture of fresh fruit. Good drive from this very mineral vineyard. L&S (Dec 2010)
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(this has the highest average vine age of these grands crus at 40+ years of age). This is especially ripe, indeed to the point where there are notes of dry Porto yet, almost incongruously, it seems fresh. There are also notes of spice, animale and cassis-liqueur, all of which can be found on the rich, powerful and impressively concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract that renders the particularly firm tannins almost invisible. This deceptive amiability will not last for long though as the hallmark austerity is already apparent and this is going to require close to 20 years to fully realize its considerable potential. 2027+ Rating: 93-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(May 2011)
Deep red-ruby. Aroma of candied raspberry lifted by crushed rock and an exotic hint of white fruits. Juicy, tight and slightly high-toned, more dominated by its structure (more affected by the racking?) today than the Bressandes. Still, this is ripe, spicy and quite sexy. Rating: 90-93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Jan 2011)
Precise, strict, channelled. Excellent focused finish with notable a saline touch to the end of the palate. It does not show itself off as the other corton, but its reserve promises great potential. Fine++. From 2019Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Jan 2011)
Domaine Chandon de Briailles
One of the great family domaines of the Côte d'Or, housed in the remarkable manor house at Savigny, with excellent holdings in Savigny itself and in neighbouring Pernand and on the hill of Corton. Organic since 1988 and, now, biodynamic (fully certified by Demeter and Ecocert). It is run by brother and sister François and Claude de Nicolaÿ. As François explains, they do not make 'bêtes de concours' or competition wines, but ones you drink. They have over the last few years progressed the renewal of the barrels of the domaine - there is still very little actual new wood, 5% new wood on the premiers crus, and 10% on the Grands crus, but they have replaced the oldest barrels which they have come to understand did have an effect of closing the wines down.
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