|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Clos de la Chatenière|
Olivier Lamy, Hubert’s son, makes some of the loveliest and best-value-for-money white burgundies in Saint-Aubin, a village tucked away down south in the Côte des Blancs , behind Meursault and Puligny. Factor in the ripe 2009 vintage and this superior premier cru’s excellent position, bordering the vineyards of Puligny-Montrachet, and you have a top-drawer white burgundy in all but name. Any of you lucky enough to taste this sublime, greeny-gold, honeyed, toasty, glacé fruit and sweet hazelnut oak-stashed 2009, with the hallmark, complex, honeyed, candied fruit of the finest wines from this rich year, will have a grand time. Great now, even finer in three years’ time. Drinking range: 2013 - 2016 Jane MacQuitty, The Times (Nov 2014)
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Burgundian Chardonnay aromas at their most seductive – woodsmoke, wheat, roasting nuts and mouthwatering freshness. The palate is densely packed and textural with a mineral tension and still youthful, sappy acidity. A treat to drink over the next three years or so. Rating: 91-91 The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com(Oct 2014)
Rich ripe greengage gives lots of weight on the nose and a lovely depth to the start of the palate. The richness is balanced by mineral freshness with the layers of flavour giving complexity. The flavours linger on the finish. 2011-14 Rating: 90 Derek Smedley MW, www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk(Dec 2013)
The 2009 St. Aubin Clos de la Chatenière is a marvelous, complete wine that brings together the richness of the year, with floral and mineral-tinged notes that help preserve a measure of freshness and energy. A textured, creamy finish rounds out this finessed, totally compelling wine. Clos de la Chatenière is a limestone rich site. The vines here are 40-50 years old and the slope is a full 45 degrees, which means you have to be in excellent shape just to walk it! Rating: 92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Nov 2013)
(worked entirely by hand as the vineyard has a 40% slope, which ensures that it receives plenty of sun). Light reduction seems to have little effect on the transparency of the pear, white flower and lemonsuffused nose. There is an attractively subtle minerality to the finely detailed, intense and vibrant flavors that exude a discreet hint of the exotic on the focused, lingering and mouth coating finish. Lovely juice fashioned in an understated style. 2015+ Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2011)
This is quite reserved on the nose, with touches of nettle, green apple and a hint of fresh asparagus. The palate is taut on the entry, very Zen-like with a fresh green apple and citrus peel middle and a leesy finish. Moderate length. Fine. Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Feb 2011)
Bright yellow. There's an almost exotic quality to the aromas of pineapple and tangerine. A sweet, spicy fruit bomb in the mouth, but manages to maintain grip for all its breadth. Finishes with excellent length. Rating: 89-92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Jan 2011)
This has compact density to the palate. Savoury and stony, taut and quite full bodied for Saint- Aubin. A more masculine, broader and muscular palate for Saint Aubin with a layered, slate finish. Sappy and savoury and slightly saline at the end. Particularly good to fine. From 2012/13Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Jan 2011)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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