2010 Brunate Andrea Oberto
The weight and the silk of the straight Barolo. Wonderful precision of aromatic purity. Very dense and very tannic too, but with such volume that the tannins are hidden, smoothed. Huge power of plum and black cherry. Finest tannins and good acidity give great elegance. Superb. Finish shows great depth and length. Already expressive and in some ways silky, but this needs a little time - say three years, and then drink over the following ten. L&S (Jun 2014)
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Aged in barrique, 20% new. Intense aroma of lightly spicy red fruit with a hint of orange, dried-cherry richness but not overly sweet. Hints of tea and a gentle floral quality. Everything you want in Nebbiolo scent plus just a touch of oak sweetness. Lovely texture, dry, mouth-coating tannins but so gentle and spreading softly to wash the palate. Already giving pleasure but much more to come. Drinking range: 2018 - 2035 Rating: 18 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Nov 2015)
Hints of game, lead pencil, coffee and black pepper complement dark cherry aromas and flavours. Ripe and intense with full juicy fruit flavours. Excellent structure and length that will develop well. Drinking range: 2015 - 2035 Rating: 90+ Decanter Magazine (Feb 2015)
Deep garnet, flecked with subtle pale orange. Generous, complex, clean-edged nose, with dried flowers and wild red berry fruit. The palate displays fine integration between oak and notes of tanned leather and roast espresso bean, with a remarkable development balancing power, extraction, and elegance. Perfect with red meat and full-flavoured, aged cheeses. Winemaker's notes (Oct 2014)
Wow. Great aromas of plums, cedar, chocolate and spices. Tar too. Full body, soft and round tannins and a long, long finish. Exceptional. Best wine ever from Oberto? Better in 2018 Rating: 98-98 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2014)
La Morra. Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Amazingly spicy, minerally and savoury on the nose. Sweet full spread on the palate. Certainly intense but with impeccable balance. 2016 - 2028 Rating: 17 Walter Speller, www.jancisrobinson.com (Mar 2014)
Dark plum, spice, menthol and cloves flesh out in the 2010 Barolo Vigneto Brunate. This is a supple, relatively approachable style for Brunate, even if the firm young Barolo tannins kick in on the laced finish. Violets, lavender, purple fruit and sweet spices add the closing notes of complexity. I would hold the 2010 for another few years, which should allow the elements to fuse together a bit more than they are already. 2015 - 2025 Rating: 92-92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Jan 2014)
A small family run business based in La Morra, over sixteen hectares of vineyards and producing ten wines. The Barolos come from a production area encompassing eleven towns, including the famous 'crus' of Brunate, Rocche, and Albarella. The wines are beautifully focused and age well, although immensely approachable in their youth.
In the words's of Fabio Oberto:
"The Andrea Oberto winery’s origins are humble in fact everything began in 1959 when my grandfather bought a farmhouse in La Morra. At that time the farmers could not survive with just one crop, therefore, my grandfather earned a living growing peaches, grapes and raising cows. However in the family business there was enough work for everyone and this is the reason why my father, Andrea, when he became adult, decided to leave his family in order to start working for a big company as truck driver. Andrea came back to La Morra just in 1978 when his father died. He inherited the family’s land and he began managing the farm. Over the years wine has become a popular product and this encouraged many farmers, like Andrea to focus solely on vine growing. At the beginning part of the grapes was sold to cooperatives and another part was transformed into wine which was sold bulk to private customers. Devoting all of his time and energies in order to realize his dream, Andrea transformed a small farm into a wine company with sixteen hectares as well as a wine production of 100.000 bottles of prestigious wine which today is sold worldwide."
To some Barolo represents the very pinnacle of Italian wine. The majestic ethereal character appeals to the senses in a similar way to red Burgundy, even if the style of the wines is utterly different. This is the intense and seductive world of Nebbiolo, where solid tannins vie unexpectedly well with delicate fruit, and where age unwinds ever more complex flavours. Contrast in this case a trio each from the traditional Podere Luigi Einaudi and the slightly more open style of Andrea Oberto. Whilst the straight Barolo Andrea Oberto and the Terlo from Luigi Einaudi might be intended for slightly earlier drinking, nothing in this case won't benefit from a little more age.
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