2010 Brut Champagne Moët & Chandon
|Grapes||Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay|
The 2010 Dom Pérignon is hard to get a read on today. I have tasted it four times over the last few months, and my feeling is that it is still not totally put together. Apricot, pastry, chamomile, mint and light tropical notes are all signatures of a hot vintage with a very fast final phase of ripening that trails only 2002 and 2003 in terms of sugars. Of course, the year had plenty of challenges. The first part of the year was marked by cold and very dry weather during the winter and spring. June saw heat and some stress in the vines. July and August were quite warm, with heavy rains on August 15 and 16 that caused a widespread outbreak of botrytis that accelerated rapidly in the days leading up to harvest. Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon explained that Chardonnay was favored over Pinot because better aeration within the clusters helped fend off rot, while parcels that had been less stressed by the June heat also suffered less from the effects of botrytis. Perhaps because of the unevenness in the season, there is also something disjointed about the 2010. While sugars were high, so were acidities, just behind 2008 in the decade of the 2000s. It will be interesting to see where the 2010 goes over time. It is the first vintage made under the direction of Vincent Chaperon, who worked alongside outgoing Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy for many years. (Originally published in August 2020) Drinking range: 2012 - 2035 Rating: 93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Nov 2020)
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A graceful Champagne, featuring fragrant notes of toasted brioche and grilled nut that are more subtle on the palate, with a rich underpinning layered with a pure chime of tangerine and accents of candied ginger, toasted saffron and lime blossom. This bundles a lot of concentrated flavor into a lithe frame, with the fine mousse caressing the palate through to the lasting finish. Drink now through 2035. Drinking range: 2020 - 2035 Rating: 96 Alison Napjus, The Wine Spectator (Nov 2020)
A vintage Vincent Chaperon is convinced has been misguidedly overlooked. 54% Chardonnay, 46% Pinot Noir. Dosage 5g/l. This bottle was disgorged February 2019. For the background see this article. Amazingly, obviously, Dom P on the nose – the powerful lemon-mousse nose came soaring out of the glass long before my nose got anywhere near it. Massive intensity of complex aroma hints that this might be a little blowsy on the palate but not a bit of it. It's really tense and tight and has a certain fumy smokiness to the very concentrated palate. But its most marked feature is the persistence of the finish. This, along with the concentration, makes me confident we will be seeing this in a P2 version, even though 15% of the potential Pinot Noir was left on the ground. Definitely not a weak vintage of Dom P. Drinking range: 2020 - 2030 Rating: 18.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jun 2020)
Champagne Moët & Chandon
Claude Moët founded the famous Champagne House in 1743. Their reputation was secured by his grandson Jean-Rémy Moët who was friendly with and, thus, received the endorsement of Napoleon. Jean-Rémy handed the business on to his son Victor Moët and son-in-law Pierre-Gabriel Chandon de Briailles and Moët et Cie became Moët & Chandon. The first vintage of Dom Perignon was the 1921, released in 1936, and it was the first De-Luxe cuvée on the market. Quite dramatic post-War expansion turned Moët & Chandon into the drinks and luxury goods company LVMH.
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