|Côte de Beaune
|Clos de la Chatenière
Richer nose than the Frionnes, again pale and bright freshness on the attack. Positive, rock-water feel. Both big and crystalline. L&S (Dec 2011)
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The 2010 St. Aubin Clos de La Chatenière, from a south facing site, is dazzling. Layers of ripe, juicy fruit burst from the glass, followed by expressive floral and spiced notes and finishing with gorgeous underlying minerality. Layers of fruit continue to build all the way through to the textured, creamy finish. This is a wonderfully complete wine. In 2010, the Clos de La Chatenière is a rockstar. Rating: 94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Nov 2013)
(from 50-year-old vines on a steep slope): White peach and flowers on the nose. Juicy and gripping, with penetrating acidity and a strong crushed stone quality energizing the flavors of pear and hawthorn. With a bit of air, this showed a creamier middle-palate texture but the sweet, silky, very long finish displays terrific verve. Should give pleasure early and late. Rating: 92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sep 2012)
The 2010 St. Aubin Clos de La Chatenière, from a south facing site, is dazzling. Layers of ripe, juicy fruit burst from the glass, followed by expressive floral and spiced notes and finishing with gorgeous underlying minerality. Layers of fruit continue to build all the way through to the textured, creamy finish. This is a wonderfully complete wine. In 2010, the Clos de La Chatenière is a rockstar. Drinking range: 2014 - 2014 Rating: 94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Aug 2012)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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