|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Filtered the day before I tasted, but not really showing any ill-effects. Very pale, very fresh and pure, a sense of more limestone power, dry and with serious intent. Quite a cool crystalline expression, with a tiny touch of bitterness which adds interest to the structure. L&S (Dec 2011)
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The cooler side of St. Aubin emerges in the 2010 St. Aubin Les Frionnes. Precise mineral notes frame exquisite fruit in this delicate, impeccable Burgundy. There is an understated intensity in the Frionnes that is gorgeous. The rocky soils in this site trap the daytime heat, yet at the same time force the roots to grow deep into the soils for nourishment. Rating: 93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Nov 2013)
Lively but subdued aromas of white peach, tangerine, flowers and crushed stone. In a fruity, supple style, with peach, grapefruit pith and tangerine flavors lifted by a note of orange blossom. Offers more intensity than complexity and comes across as a tad tart on the back end, and still a bit youthfully bound-up. Rating: 89(+?)? Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sep 2012)
The Frionnes has a very crisp, almost Zen-like bouquet at the moment. The palate is crisp with lemon zest and orange rind on the entry, fanning out nicely across the palate with hints of ginger towards the finish. Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jul 2012)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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