2011 Domaine Comte Armand
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
The first 2011 I tasted, and already here is my 'signature flavour' of the vintage... "Very 'on-the-fruit', a little acidulous edge, but there's some real fun here - a sort of damson richness to the fruit; ripe tannins." L&S (May 2017)
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A notably ripe nose of earthy dark berry fruit, plum and a hint of game leads to rich, velvety and solidly well-concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess moderately rustic but not aggressive tannins that surface on the utterly delicious and balanced finish. This is no model of finesse but there is excellent phenolic maturity and overall, this is a fine villages that could be enjoyed young or held for a few years first. 2017+ Rating: 88 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com
Mid crimson. Oaky nose. Rather more tannin than fruit in evidence at the moment on the palate but still fresh and moreish and delicately spiced. 2015-2020 Rating: 15.5+ Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com
Bright crimson. Light nose and very firm and sculpted. Bold! Funny to have this often low-key appellation in such bold hands… 2016-2021 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com
Domaine Comte Armand
The Comte Armand is a lawyer living in Paris, but very supportive of the régisseurs who have looked after this domaine for the twenty-four years or so that L&S have been buying here. The 1980 vintage, made by one of the many Rossignols of Volnay who was in charge at the time, was a great introduction to the possibilities of the great Clos des Epeneaux vineyard. Then came the era of Pascal Marchand, a young Quebecois who came to do a harvest with Domaine Bruno Clair and just never left. He began a period of radical restructuring and the introduction of organic and then biodynamic farming, while making very dark, dense and long-lived wines. Benjamin Leroux, hugely respected amongst growers who approach things from an organic or biodynamic point of view, then took over, and has refined this approach and changed the way the parcels of vines are divided up for harvesting, paying less attention to just the age of the vines, and more to the underlying soil types. Claude Bourguignon was employed to provide a full geological survey of the Clos as the basis for this. Benjamin is also a master technician if required to be. The wines of the Clos have gained in finesse and precision, while still having the depth and richness expected of a great Pommard. Both Pascal and Benjamin were keen to expand beyond the confines of the Clos, and the Domaine also has vines in Volnay, and, a particular enthusiasm of both Pascal and Benjamin, in Auxey Duresses, where they are convinced of the great potential of some of this village's undervalued and neglected terroirs. Now (2014) the reins are handed to Paul Zinetti, who has worked here with Ben for four years before taking over.
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