2011 Vie Erte Cigliuti
(from Briccoserra hill in Bricco di Neive opposite Serraboella, 26 months in oak, earlier drinking from 15 year old vines) Lovely bright nose of ripe cherries, macerated plums, palate has lovely richness of ripe red fruits, some sweetness, backed by rich tannins, lovely acidity, structure and length. L&S (Nov 2015)
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Our introduction to the wines of Cigliuti was a bottle (followed over the ensuing months by several more) of their ‘Briccoserra, a 50/50 Barbera and Nebbiolo blend, many years back in Giuseppe Turi’s restaurant ‘Enoteca Turi’. We had remained fans from a distance, and are delighted now to be able to work so closely with the family. Sisters Claudia and Silvia Cigliuti have now taken over the running of this vineyard from their father Renato. He was the first member of the family to begin bottling his own wine, back in 1964, roughly the same time as other pioneers in the region like Giacosa, but the family can trace its roots on this land back to the late eighteenth century. Most of the vineyard and the winery is on the Serraboella hill, looking over Neive from the east, and it is the Barbaresco Serraboella which is the flagship wine of the estate. This hill, composed of calcareous marl and tufa soils, gives classic wines which combine the textural finesse of clay and the length and longevity of wines from limestone. The vineyards are tended by the family, by hand, with low yields to ensure full ripeness every year.
From Cigliuti's Bricco de Neive vineyard, relatively young vines on a sandy soil. Supple for Barbaresco, gorgeously gourmand and moreish, yet dryly taut and satisfying. Aged in 2000 litre slavonian oak foudres. L&S (Mar 2015)
Firmly structured, this is lush and powerful, delivering intense flavors of cherry, plum, spice, briar and iron. Still needs time for the elements to come together. The finish is long and fresh. Drinking range: 2018 - 2030 Rating: 93 Bruce Sanderson, The Wine Spectator (Jan 2016)
Freshly cut flowers, mint, pine, crushed rocks and small red berries lift from the glass in the 2011 Barbaresco Vie Erte. The flavors are bright and crystalline throughout. Despite the warm vintage, the Vie Erte retains gorgeous freshness and energy. There is a lot to like in this precise, mid-weight Barbaresco from Cigliuti. The Vie Erte spent 26 months in cask, quite long by today's standards in Barbaresco, where the minimum oak requirement has come down to nine months from twelve. Drinking range: 2016 - 2031 Rating: 93-93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Oct 2014)
It is often lazily asserted that if Barolo is the King of Piedmontese wines Barbaresco is the Queen; which can unfairly suggest Barbaresco as the lesser of the two - it certainly isn't - and suggest a more feminine style to Barbaresco - which is rather hard to discern in reality. It is more in the way of a dual monarchy - two Kings, or Queens if you prefer, both can be big, both can be highly seductive. This is the intense and sensual world of Nebbiolo, where solid tannins vie unexpectedly well with delicate fruit, and where age unwinds ever more complex flavours. In this case we have a brace of wines from Cigliuti, wines that are surprisingly open in relative youth but offer much promise for the future; and a trio from the butch solid grippingly tannic world of Sottimano which cry out for a cool dark cellar and some patience.
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