CHÂTEAU CLIMENS

Tasting through individual lots, I was struck by their purity and tautness, developing engaging floral aromas with aeration, with occasional notes of yellow plum and ginger. On the palate, once again there is a common theme of purity and crisp acidity, although they alternated between a lighter and a more mellifluous style. One or two significant lots demonstrated enticing spicy notes that define great Climens. There is certainly enormous potential here, one that beckons an intense, vivacious Barsac underpinned by freshness and focus. The 2011 was picked over five tries in two phases, the first from September 8 to the 21st representing a whopping 82% of the harvest over two tries; the second from September 26 until the 28th comprising over three smaller tries. Although the weather played a critical factor, Berenice Lurton attributed the success of her wine to her limestone soils. Rating: 95-97 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com

As in every other year, Bérénice Lurton offers a tasting of different barrels, representing different lots picked from different parcels on different dates – there were 14 lots in all. They are not ready to make the blend yet but tasting a selection of the possible components can give you some idea of the wine to come. Lurton explained that the heterogeneity of maturation was made more homogeneous by the effect of botrytis. Botrytis tends to hide the differences in ripeness but it can still be felt in the level of acidity. They started picking very early, on 8 September, though that first pass through the vineyard was partly a clean-up operation to remove any unhealthy berries. 80% of the harvest occurred 8-21 September and this fruit forms the heart of the wine this year. Main picking began on 12 September and finished on the 28th, with the development of botrytis fast and furious so that they had to bolster the picking team by an extra 50 on the weekend of 17/18 September. Since the grapes were so concentrated this year, they picked more 'golden berries' (ripe but not botrytised) to retain freshness and elegance and avoid overconcentration and heaviness. Yields were good overall (c 20 hl/ha, similar to 2010 and 2011), fermentations a little slower than average (generally about a month). Lot 6, picked on 15 September had quite a mineral streak with spice and terrific freshness. Lot 9 from 18 September was richer and denser with more barley sugar and orange flavours but still had great acidity. Lot 11, picked 20 September had fine tension and length – real elegance and subtle orange notes. Lot 12, from 21 September was dense and very very long. Lot 13, picked 26-28 September and therefore comprising some of the most concentrated berries but also some 'golden berries', resulting in a rich but very lively elixir. If these examples are anything to go by, this will be a very pure and elegant vintage with excellent freshness. My average score was 18. Drink dates are harder to predict but I'd estimate 2021-2040+. Rating: 18 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com

Fine, complex and elegant. Final blend under the deft guidance of Berenice Lurton will no doubt create another great vintage for Climens. Drink 2021-2047. Rating: 19 www.decanter.com