CHÂTEAU DOISY DAËNE

2011 2ème Cru Classé Barsac

Origin France, Bordeaux
District Left Bank
Sub-district Sauternes-Barsac
Village Barsac
Classification 2ème Cru Classé
ABV 14%

Pale silvery green. Very fresh nose, with identifiable Sauvignon, but much else too. A bright sherbety pineapple fruit, sweet and pure, slightly dusty as if with icing sugar, slightly lacks the icy citrus acidity of the best vintages here, but there is still delicacy and poise. Rating: 93-93 L&S (Sep 2019)

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The aromatics on the Doisy-Daene comes racing out of the blocks like a March hare, soaring from the glass with honey, quince and lychee aromas with a sorbet like freshness and vivacity. The palate is supremely well balanced with a heightened level of tension and purity, offering delectable but subtle notes of white peach and apricot towards the beautifully composed, mineral-rich finish. Curiously, it reminds me of a top-flight Mosel Auslese, but what a fabulous Barsac from Denis Dubourdieu! Rating: 95-97 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com

A lovely pure freshness on the nose here, the fruit veering away from citrus tones into a richer and more exotic style, touching most certainly on mango. And yet there is no loss of freshness or definition, the aromatics feel as it the fruit concentrate has been swirled with cool vanilla ice cream. A sorbet-like freshness. The palate certainly is impressive, very broad and defined, rich and with a great energy at its core, fine acids and supple grip. This is very fine indeed, restrained and classic, but with the density of a very good vintage. Depth and pithy grip here. Superb. Rating: 18-19 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com

Pure tart citrus liveliness on the nose and creamy too. Mineral and a light spice. Powerfully rich and honeyed. Broad across the mouth but long, too. Orangey freshness on the long finish and a hint of marzipan. Freshness right to the very end. Concentrated and pure. 2021-2035 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com

Herbaceous aromas are followed by nutmeg and crisp fruit. This has the great ripe fruit of the year without the huge intensity; it’s a wine that has subtlety as well as complexity. Rating: 92-94 Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast www.winemag.com

True to house style, there is lifted flavours of intense marmalade and dried mango with refreshing acidity. Fantastic concentration, finely textured sweetness and excellent length. Drink 2021-2047. Rating: 18.5 www.decanter.com

Very backward today, with viscous green plum, green almond, quince, pineapple, fig and pear notes still assimilating one another. The long, toasted almond- and ginger-filled finish has terrific depth. Rating: 95-98 James Molesworth, The Wine Spectator

A wine that has “more of everything, but is still in balance” according to Fabrice Dubourdieu, this is a super concentrated sweet wine with a massive 175g/l of sugar, a touch of smoky reduction and exotic characters of pineapple, barley sugar and citrus fruit. Delicious now, but will age for a decade or more. 10+ years. Rating: 95 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com

A dense wine with honey, spice and butterscotch undertones. Full and very sweet. Turns spicy on the finish. Lots of botrytis character. Rating: 92-93 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com

Château Doisy Daëne

Barsac Deuxième cru 1855 As one might expect, there was originally one Doisy estate. Sometime in the earlier 19th Century, it was divided into three parts - the larger part became Doisy-Vedrines, and two smaller parts became the rarely encountered Doisy-Dubroca and, the part purchased by Jean-Jacques Emmanuel Daëne, Doisy-Daëne. Jean-Jacques' sons later sold another portion of Doisy-Daëne to Doisy-Dubroca. Georges Dubourdieu bought Doisy-Daëne in 1924, and his family still own it to this day. The little over 16ha of vineyard sit sandwiched between Châteaus Coutet and Climens, and are planted with 87% Semillon, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle. The Grand Vin is fermented in stainless-steel, but aged in wood, producing a style that is finer and cleaner than many other wines of the region. It would sit easily alongside the Premier Crus from the area, making Doisy-Daëne a sort of Barsac "super-second". In better vintages, a super-cuvée - L'Extravagant de Doisy Daëne - that rivals Yquem is produced from very late-picked grapes. Pierre Dubourdieu (Georges' son) was not so much interested in the classic dessert wines of the region as dry wines and under his stewardship, in 1949, Doisy-Daëne became the first Sauternes/Barsac producer to make a dry white. This 100% barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc is still produced in small quantities, although the modern generation place more appropriate emphasis on the sweeter end of the spectrum.

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