The Donnhoff 2011 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs – from the Felsenturmchen vineyard, whose eponymous little stone tower will continue to appear on the label in lieu of a lieu dit – delivers a complex if relatively austere and piquant alliance of stony, smoky, subtly gamey, huckleberry and black tea elements in a matrix of apple and lime. Sleek and slippery on the palate, it finishes impressively multifariously, grippingly, and with welcome and persistent juiciness that allays its tendencies toward austerity and bitterness. This should prove quite absorbing to follow over the next half-dozen or more years. Drinking range: 2013 - 2019 Rating: 91-91 David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate (Feb 2013)
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The Dönnhoff family have been growing vines at Oberhausen in the Nahe since 1750. Helmut is the current man at the helm and is regarded, by his peers, as one of Germany's finest winemakers. His son Cornelius has also now started learning the ropes, in order to take over when, and if, his father retires. It was Helmut's grandfather, Hermann who made the transition from mixed farming to focus completely on growing vineyards and producing wine. Although the Nahe is one of the driest regions in Germany, Dönnhoff has not used irrigation in the vineyards for about 25 years, as he feels that the vines don't benefit from it, and that in fact the wines are worse for it.
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