TAITTINGER

So far I have tasted two bottles of the 2011 Comtes de Champagne. The first was strongly vegetal, with angular contours and virtually no fruit; the second was unyielding and compact, with no mid-palate and no finish to speak of. To say the 2011 is far off the mark would be a massive understatement. Perhaps, I have been extremely unlucky, but based on the two bottles I have tasted, the 2011 Comtes should have never been released. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 Rating: 75 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Nov 2021)

2011 was a good year for the vines, especially the Chardonnay hailing from the Côte des Blancs, which produces wines of exceptional quality. The 2011 vintage was very different, marked by early ripening and a spring drought. This forced the root network to delve deep in the earth in search of the water it needed for proper growth and resulted in a voluptuous Comtes de Champagne, etched with truth. The Grands Crus from the Côtes des Blancs have the components to mature beautifully, while other parts of Champagne will see a challenge. The Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs is made exclusively with Chardonnay from the 5 villages on the Côte des Blancs with «Grands Crus» classification: Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. This unique terroir is a strip of land measuring barely 20km. The thousand-year-old chalk is present on the surface, creating a real oasis of water and warmth. White grapes flourish beautifully on this type of soil, from which they derive minerality, strength and aromatic sophistication. To create the Comtes de Champagne, only the «cuvee» is used, for an absolute guarantee of sophistication. Of the wines that make up its composition, 5% have been aged for 4 months in new oak barrels, one third of which are replaced each year. These enhance the inherent qualities of the final blend of toasted notes. During the 10 years it has spent slowly maturing in cellars, time has worked its magic, meaning this vintage comes to us with an extraordinary energy and ageing potential. All that remains now is for it to write the rest of its story. The moment you open this 2011 vintage, a special occasion in itself, it lives up to all expectations. It is a unique sensory experience, a visual and gustatory delight! With a beautiful golden shimmer through colours of straw yellow and reflections of gold; the mousse is fine, delicate, creamy and captivating. The nose takes you into a world of maturity and voluptuousness. It exhales delicious notes of gingerbread, liquorice and meringue. This Comtes de Champagne delivers aromas of delicate white fruit: vine peach, cherimoya and mandarin peel subtly blended with light touches of almond pastry. A wine of great mineral power, dense and rich with Chardonnays flexing their iodine character. The generous palate is built upon a chalky structure, giving it charm and precision. This smooth wine takes you on a journey through aromas of candied fruit and sweet spices like aniseed and coriander. Really capturing a moment in time, the freshness of this Comtes de Champagne 2011 suggests that it offers all the ageing potential that is to be expected of such a cuvee. The finest example of the Maison Taittinger style, the Comtes de Champagne is rare. It is subject to a great deal of care and attention until it reaches peak condition, and the criteria that must be met for its creation means that it cannot be produced on a large scale. Perfect for a special celebration, this champagne is the ideal match for a seafood, shellfish or fish entrée. With an ideal serving temperature of 11°C, this cuvée surprises from the first sips with its incredible youthfulness and its crystal-clear, taut texture. Winemaker's notes (Sept 2021)