CHÂTEAU CLIMENS

Seven different barrel samples were tasted from early-picked (15 Oct) to late-picked grapes (31 Oct). Early harvested samples are very pure, with lovely honeysuckle, fresh yellow fruits and fairly high concentration of sugar (130-140gm/l residual sugar). Later-picked parcels have a more unctuous texture, thicker palate and chalky finish. Micro blends that combine late- and early-picked parcels show beautiful, delicate flavours that have focus, freshness and purity. This is by far the best, most successful wine of the vintage. 2020 - 2028 Rating: 18 Jeannie Cho Lee MW, Decanter

As always, this was a tasting from barrel of the components that are likely to go into the final wine. This year, because some of the lots were so small, they had already made some micro-blends prior to this tasting. I find it quite difficult to do this tasting and wonder how useful it is in terms of getting an idea of the final wine, but it does perhaps give an indication of the overall quality of the lots. There were two main harvest periods: 15-19 October (the rain and then humidity returned on the 19th) and 29-31 October, after the wind had dried things out on the 28th. Rain returned on 1 November and it was all over. 45% of the crop harvest came in this second picking. Bérénice Lurton said she thought the first picking was, on the whole, a little more floral, the second picking very pure and mineral – although I found it hard to discern this distinction in the samples tasted. The RS levels on the first picking were higher (around 135 g/l) than on the second (100 g/l). Overall yields were 10 hl/ha, which was very good given the vintage, though about half that of 2011. She was also happy that the wine is not too concentrated this year as this is not her preferred style. 1 A blend of two lots from the first picking period (16/10 and 19/10): Spicy aroma, then spicy apricot on the palate, intense. 2 The fourth lot of the first picking, 17/10, which made up 6.5% of the harvest: Less spicy than the first sample but richer on the palate. Some almond paste along with the characteristic orange and apricot. 3 Lots 3 and 5 from the first picking (16/10 and 17/10), 15% of the harvest: Almonds again on the nose, beautifully fresh and pure with lots of energy but also silky. 4 First lot from second picking (29/10): A hint of mushrooms on the nose, seems less intense than the previous sample but tense and fresh. Lovely sour-fresh finish. Alcohol a little higher (20.3 potential). 5 Micro-blend of sixth lot from first picking (18/10) and last from second picking (31/10); 8.5% of the harvest: Honeyed and pure apricot, but also more mineral and citrusy. Sour, orange-peel intensity without excess sweetness. 6 Lot from second picking (30/10): Almond freshness and less immediately seductive than previous. Intense and more savoury/mineral than lusciously fruity. 7 Blend from first lot (15/10) and one lot from the second picking: Again that slight mushroom note along with almonds on the nose and then full-throttle apricot on the palate. Sour freshness and an almost oily minerality. Great length and depth. One of the best lots tasted. Overall a promising and exciting vintage, with quite a bit of variation between the lots for them to play with in the blending. Though as Bérénice Lurton said at the end of the barrel tasting, the wines are changing all the time and the result of the blend is sometimes completely different from what you expected. Score and drink date are therefore approximate, based on the likely quality of the final blend. 2022-2042 Rating: 18.5? Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com

There was a common theme of spicy, honeyed fruit coming through on both the nose and the palate, one particular lot relatively high in alcohol that should provide the foundation for the more nuances pickings. In many ways, this is a quintessential Climens with subtle orange peel and mandarin notes allied with finely tuned acidity. As usual, I tasted through several lots and micro-blends with Berenice Lurton and her team, to ascertain how the final blend will perform, paying particular attention to those that will form the heart of the final wine. For sure, this is going to be a Climens worth seeking out. Berenice is unequivocal that their conversion to biodynamics (to be certified in 2015) played a key role in combating bad rot in the vineyard. It was a late harvest for sure, commencing on October 15 but halted on October 19, when the rains returned. It was the north-easterly wind on Sunday, October 28 that saved their vintage – drying out the grapes and over the next three days, when they were able to conduct a blanket harvest as the crop was so even. There is certainly not a mote of grey rot and final yields were a respectable 10 hectoliters per hectare. Berenice was correct – her teams have made an excellent 2012 and I suspect that it will be the finest of the vintage. Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com