Pretty green-gold. Taut and fresh with excellent volume and purity. Expressive finish, lots going on here, vivacious, bouncy, tangy. L&S (Jan 2014)
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From one of the Maconnais' stars, Daniel Barraud, this is a ripe and complex Pouilly Fuissé whose concentration of rich stone-fruit Chardonnay flavour is characterised by a fine tension between seamless fruit freshness etched with light citrus and a lingering, stony dry finish. Rating: 90 The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com (Feb 2015)
The 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé “Alliance” Vieilles Vignes is a blend of several parcels matured in oak barrels and demi-muids, the vines aged between 40 and 60 years. It has a slightly more reticent bouquet than Barraud’s other 2012s at this stage, demanding more coaxing from the glass. The palate is rounded and almost viscous on the entry with light-honeyed tones infusing the citrus fruit that builds towards the thickly textured lemongrass-tinged finish. Good length here – a thoroughly decent Pouilly-Fuissé. Drinking range: 2014 - 2018 Rating: 89 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Oct 2014)
Rating: 92 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2014)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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