2012 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
One of the biggest cuvées here - but this year reduced to 9 rather than 22 barrels. Very dark colour. The soil is a balanced mix of clay and rock. Rich, lots of body but there is lift here too. Black fruit expression, lively blackberry, firm and huge and dense. L&S (Dec 2013)
*Case price: Mix any 12 bottles of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
(vinified with 50% whole clusters; not much hail here, according to Rossignol, but the yield was just 15 hectoliters per hectare): Good dark red. Very complex but restrained aromas and flavors of raspberry, spices, smoke and truffley underbrush. Dense, very rich and sweet but with terrific spicy definition; highly concentrated but not heavy. This large-scaled, powerful wine is not austere but nonetheless calls for considerable patience. Finishes with serious tannins that reach the front teeth. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030 Rating: 91+ Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Mar 2015)
50% whole clusters and made from yields of 8 hl/ha). Reduction. Here too there is excellent richness and outstanding volume to the solidly concentrated, powerful and energetic flavors where the underlying minerality is very much in evidence on the strikingly persistent finish. This is a huge wine in the context of what is typically very Volnay in style yet it remains impeccably well-balanced. Even so, I would simply note that this is not one to buy expecting the usual Volnay lace and grace. 2024+ Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Apr 2014)
(50% vendange entier; from vines planted in 1954): Good red-ruby color. Musky aromas of wild brambly berries and rocky minerality; seems clearly less evolved than the Clos des Angles. Very rich and chewy but with excellent rocky energy and sappiness to the wild berry and licorice flavors. Just a touch of torrefaction here. Finishes tactile and very long, with dusty tannins. These grapes were picked at 12.2% potential alcohol. Rating: 91-93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Jan 2014)
The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru En Chevret is located between Champans and Santenots-les-Milieu and contains 50% whole cluster fruit like the Clos des Angles. It comes from two parcels: 40 and 60 years old, the former usually de-stemmed. The bouquet is very well-defined but introspective despite rigorous coaxing. It reluctantly gives up attractive briary and boysenberry scents. The palate is much more expressive with that boysenberry component flourishing on the entry. There is good minerality here, the finish almost foursquare but with impressive tension and length. This is quite a serious Volnay, perhaps a little Pommard-like in style, and deserves 3-5 years aging in bottle. Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Jan 2014)
10m between this and Caillerets and 50% whole bunches. Good balance of clay and rock. This finished the MLF some time ago, so it’s easier to see the terroir. I prefer Chevret to Caillerets here this year for it really expresses the terroir, despite the vintage. It is perfumed. It is silky and supple and juicy; Seductive, layered and compact. I like the firm core here too. Satin fruit around a pure and dense mineral core. It weaves the elements together. This is very good; probably my favourite in the line-up. Lovely long finish, perfumed and mineral. From 2018. Rating: 18.75 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Dec 2013)
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
Nicolas Rossignol is a new superstar in the village of Volnay, making deeply coloured flavourful wines from his own vines and from the fruit of the family vineyard, where the wines were in the past labelled 'Rossignol-Jeanniard'. He has now agreed with his family that he buys all the fruit, and so the wines are now labelled very similarly, either with or without the word 'domaine'.
Since these are all vineyards under his sole control thoughout the year, it really does not make any difference which is which. The character of each site shows through all the wines, but perhaps especially in the beautifully balanced Volnays, which incline to a very bright, transparent, incisive style. Sadly 2012, 2013 and now 2014 have all been hit hard by hail, so these wines are getting a bit rare - the volumes have been catastrophically down.
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