|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
I first met Virgile Lignier back in the mid-1990s and I used to ship pallets of his stunning Burgundies back to London for my wine list at Bibendum Restaurant. Time has moved on and I do not see these wines as much as I would like, but I always keep an eye out as I love the lush fruit and stunning accuracy of his wines. With six years under its belt, this old vine Morey, which comes from three parcels in the village, is drinking perfectly. There is a fair slice of whole bunch fruit here and this adds spice and aromatic detail. This is my pick of all red wines this year for your turkey feast. Matthew Jukes, Moneyweek (Dec 2019)
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80% whole bunch fermentation here. Immediate richness on the nose, broad fruity attack across the whole palate. Tannins adding a spice, a piquancy to the fruit. Blackberry and spice in a lovely balance. Drinking range: 2018 - L&S(Nov 2014)
Really quite heady with intense ripe fruit. Vivacious with some age and just the slightest hint of cough syrup but lots of solid pleasure. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 16.5+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Oct 2018)
The 2013 Morey St Denis Vieilles Vignes, from three parcels around the appellation, offers a pure blackcurrant and blueberry bouquet that is much more intense than the Rue de Vergy. The aromatics come straight out of the glass and give you a big hug. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile, edgy tannin, which Virgile attributed to the 60% whole cluster and the small size of the berries. This is strict, linear and serious with superb mineralité on the finish that feels terse at the moment, but offers great sustain in the mouth. This is a minor chord that will turn major after bottling. Don't ignore this gem. Drinking range: 2017 - 2032 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Jun 2015)
A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.
In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.
The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.
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