2013 Undhof Kögl Salomon Undhof
Slightly herbal/reductive, withheld nose. Smoky grapefruit. Salty, dry and stony, with restrained citrus fruit. Salty finish. Juicy and mouth-watering. Drinking range: 2017 - 2025 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Aug 2016)
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Founded in 1792 SALOMON UNDHOF is a wine estate with a long tradition. The Salomon family from the Wachau produces white wines from the best terraced "Urgestein" sites along the Danube River in Stein and Krems. Today Bert and Gertrud Salomon run the winery. The famous Riesling of the estate thrives on the topsites of Kögl and Pfaffenberg. The Grüner Veltliner Von Stein comes from the steep terrassed hills behind the old town of Stein. The best "loess" soils provide the Lindberg and Wachtberg Grüner Veltliner. All the grapes are harvested traditionally by hand only. Their great vineyard locations and meticulous work in the vineyards are prerequisites for their elegant wines. Wines with finesse and perfect mineral balance reflect the very special micro climate of this lovely river valley. The Estate’s Grüner Veltliner and Riesling distinguish themselves through elegance and consistency.
Bright fresh apple and lemon are wreathed in floral perfume, laced with bittersweet citrus oils, and suffused with mouthwateringly saline-sweet, iodine-tinged shrimp-shell reduction. The combination of satiny texture with levity and refreshment is irresistible, yet the dynamic shimmeringly crystalline fruit-mineral finishing interaction offers genuine intrigue as well. I can’t recall a finer Riesling from this estate, and my tasting experience goes back 25 vintages. (The extra appearance of “Undhof” on the label of this wine serves to distinguish it from the official “reserve” bottling labeled “Steiner Kögl.”) Drinking range: 2015 - 2025 Rating: 93 David Schildknecht, www.vinousmedia.com (Nov 2015)
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