CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY
2014 1er Cru Derrière la Grange Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Rich, floral, slightly decadent, rose nose and palate, structurally solidly full despite the advanced aromatics. Firm wirth distinctly taut crunch to the tannins. Fine fruit to the finish. Drinking range: 2020 - L&S (Nov 2015)
75cl bottles (case of 12)
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(these vines are between 55 and 60 years of age):Good medium-deep red. Spicy blackberry, violet and a zesty note of powdered chalk on the nose. Juicy dark berry and mineral flavors show excellent energy and grip. Has the firm tannic spine to support aging. Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Jan 2016)
Here too there is a subtle touch of wood present on the beautifully well-layered aromas of lavender, rose petal, dark currant and black cherry aromas. There is a lovely minerality present on the lively medium weight flavors where the mouth feel definitely benefits from the fine-grained tannins, all wrapped in a firm and serious but refined finish where a hint of bitter cherry appears. This is excellent and worth a look. Drinking range: - 2024 Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2016)
A monopoly holding at the domaine, this is more marked by its whole bunch fermentation than the other Premiers Crus, possibly because it’s a more delicate wine. Chalky, sappy and smoky with firm tannins, subtle oak and bright acidity. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2016)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.