CHARMES CHAMBERTIN
2014 Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Spicy, mildly medicinal, herbal (dried herbs de Provence), menthol. Very tight and linear. Not very Charmes! Again a rich tannic mass, all wrapped up with full fruit - great concentration. A long way to go. Drinking range: 2024 - L&S (Nov 2015)
75cl bottles (case of 6)
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Bright dark crimson. Lively fruit. Lovely sweet palate entry and great seduction with Gevrey concentration. Needs time though. Lots of tannin on the end so pretty heavily extracted. Drinking range: 2024 - 2032 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2016)
(from a .30 ha parcel in Charmes proper). Reduction presently dominates the nose. Otherwise there is outstanding richness to the full-bodied flavors that possess a relatively refined texture that is not dissimilar to that of the Ech, all wrapped in a fleshy yet moderately austere finale. Drinking range: - 2026 Rating: 92-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2016)
From a 0.35-hectare parcel in what Burgundians tend to call Charmes-Charmes (to distinguish is from Mazoyères) this is sappy and intense, with lots of clove spice, firmish tannins and the concentration to age. A Grand Cru that’s built to last, but can be forbidding in its youth. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030 Rating: 96 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2016)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.