GEVREY CHAMBERTIN
2014 1er Cru Lavaut Saint Jacques Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Good deep red-ruby. Blackberry and black raspberry along with some very ripe hints on the nose. Sappy, sweet flavors of blackberry, violet and crushed stone show excellent grip and firm acidity. Finishes savory and very tightly wound. Excellent potential here but this wine will require cellaring. Rating: 90-93 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Jan 2016)
75cl bottles (case of 6)
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(from a .30 ha parcel). This is also very Gevrey in style with its cool and restrained nose of freshly turned earth, underbrush, various dark berries and game scents. There is first-rate vibrancy and delineation to the focused and powerful medium weight plus flavors that exhibit plenty of minerality on the balanced, long and palate staining finale. This is impressive though note that unlike some wines in the range this will not make for particularly good early drinking. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2016)
There’s only one small parcel of this Premier Cru (“alas”, says Yves Confuron, because it’s always a special wine). Refined, scented and spicy, it has textured tannins, very subtle oak and notes of rose petal, wild strawberry and clove spice. 2019-27 Drinking range: 2019 - 2027 Rating: 95 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2016)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.