MEURSAULT
2014 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard
Nose is all airy mineral, not really fruit at all. Maybe a hint of white flowers. More volume as one climbs the scale, sleek and full and positively vibrating with tension and fruit complexity. Very, very long. Drinking range: 2019 - L&S (Nov 2015)
75cl bottles (case of 12)
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Bright lemon-yellow color. Lemon, white flowers and a whiff of honey on the reticent nose. Quite dry, even a bit unyielding, displaying a thickness of texture but with its fruit in the deep background. Less minerally than the Chevalières but this wine nonetheless will require cellaring to express itself. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027 Rating: 91 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sept 2016)
Light, fresh, open nose. Polished but not that concentrated. Balance is good but I cannot imagine this wine absolutely thrilling anyone. Drinking range: 2017 - 2024 Rating: 16.5+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2016)
Tighter and more focused than Rémi Jobard’s Genevrières, this comes from neighbouring Poruzot Dessus and is very different in character. Smoky, leesy and showing some understated struck match character, it’s a wine that needs time in bottle to display its class. Drinking range: 2019 - 2028 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2016)
The 2014 Meursault Poruzots Dessus demands a little encouragement from the glass, eventually opening with pink grapefruit, apricot blossom and mango notes, although that sounds more exotic than it actually is. All of the scents are reined in and focused. The palate is fresh on the entry with a slightly waxy texture, more phenolic than the Les Chevalières, and perhaps not possessing quite the same delineation and detail on the finish -- at least at this early juncture. Drinking range: 2017 - 2027 Rating: 88-90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2015)
Bright pale yellow. Yellow fruits, wet stone and honey on the nose. Shows harmonious acidity but less minerality than the Chevalières, giving it a more open-knit texture in the early going. Can't match the Chevalières for intensity or inner-mouth perfume but this is lemony and smooth on the palate and firm-edged on the finish. Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Sept 2015)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.