2014 Pinot Noir Trocken Qba Weingut Lehnert-Veit
Significantly richer than the Günterslay, this gets 30% new wood. There's a bit more water in the ground here, which is broken slate on the edge of Goldtröpchen. Could need a little more time to open up, but was tasted in March 2017, so may already have begun to bloom. L&S (Jul 2017)
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This was not so much tasted as drunk at the end of the day on the lawn of the estate overlooking the Mosel and the vines of the Goldtröpfchen vineyard in the evening sun setting on the slope on the opposite side of the river. One could easily be swayed towards undue favouritism under such conditions, but my drinking companion, the editor and publisher of one of Germany’s two leading wine guides, ensured that professional standards were not compromised. We agreed that the Mosel has become a promising playing field for Spätburgunder, and although still a little disjointed at this early stage, the Falkenberg already showed the necessary credentials of supple red-berry fruit, diligently roasted barrique notes, dark finely bitter chocolate and peppery notions to become a superior Pinot Noir. Rating: 17 Michael Schmidt, JancisRobinson.com (Jul 2017)
Located in the heart of the romantic Mosel, the Lehnert-Veit family has a long tradition of quality wine-growing, dating back to 1653 when Eucharius Lehnert was at the helm. These traditions have been passed on through the generations, all the way to the current 10th generation, led by Peter Lehnert (who happened to go to university with Stefan Braunewell). Their hometown of Piesport is on the bank of the Mosel and their 11 hectares of vines are around the town on both sides of the river, with some of the best sites: ‘premier crus’ Falkenberg and Günterslay as well as the jewel in the crown, the ‘grand cru’ vineyard Goldtröpfchen.
Their estate wines are the starting point for the classification of their vineyards. They are situated in carefully selected locations on exceptional soils made of quartzite, sand and slate. The soil of the Falkenberg and Günterslay ‘Erste Lagen’ have a higher proportion of rough stone, giving the pinot noirs their elegance and lightness. Finally the ‘Grosse Lage’ Goldtröpfchen is home to Lehnert-Veit’s top Rieslings. This renowned terroir has a higher proportion of fine slate at a much greater depth, giving the wine its intense minerality and roundness. Ripe, yellow summer fruits like peach, apricot and mirabelle and, depending on the year, different citrus fruits as well.
Peter says ‘Our winemaking philosophy begins in the vineyard. Integrated winegrowing, organic fertilization, low cutting, thinning of the grapes in the summer, selective harvesting, gentle aging and a fermentation with natural yeast are key. Always with an emphasis on wines of the highest quality.’
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