2014 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Frionnes Domaine Hubert Lamy, Lea & Sandeman

SAINT AUBIN

2014 1er Cru Frionnes Domaine Hubert Lamy

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Saint Aubin
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Frionnes

A Premier Cru in the middle of the hill, on decomposed limestone. Quite ripe and full, with good energy too, a sense of fresh hazelnut and walnut feel and flavour. Very mineral and pure, with a very fresh finish. Drinking range: 2017 - L&S (Nov 2015)


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This 2014 Frionnes is just beginning to move on to the next stage of development, with the emergence of a slight wet wool note but still the essential wine behind seems very young. It is rather closed down, betwixt and between with a drier note to the finish. All signs of adolescence! Though awkward at the moment, I would expect this to regain composure and emerge in another couple of years. I would not be surprised by a higher rating next time round. Tasted: November 2022. Drinking range: 2025 - 2030 Rating: *** Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Apr 2023)

Some sweetness on the nose. Racy on the palate. Promising and well put together though not that concentrated. Tension is its strong suit. Drinking range: 2016 - 2022 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2016)

The 2014 Sant Aubin 1er Cru les Frionnes was showing quite a bit of reduction on the nose when I tasted it from barrel. The palate has satisfying density though and light tropical tones hovering in the background, awaiting their call to come on stage. It is harmonious and focused, again, with a dash of spice to the finish, easy-going in nature but sustained on the finish. This is just a delight, if not possessing the complexity of its siblings. Drinking range: 2017 - 2027 Rating: 88-90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2015)

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.

Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.

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