Another of Mathieu's Lieux dits this time Pinot Noir from south east facing vineyards at 250 metres altitude close to the village of Chavignol. Here we have a wine that takes everything up a notch with bold, bright damson, wild strawberry and dark cherry fruit, ripe and silky once more, but fuller in the mouth richer tannins, but that gorgeous bright acidity once more giving balance. These wines really have hit the sweet spot. L&S (Sep 2015)
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This is a pinot noir made for pleasure. It has beguiling vegetal notes and a great combination of leafy fruit, silky tannins and understated oak. It has the concentration and acidity to age well and shows a real sweetness of fruit and individual character. Drinking range: 2017 - 2023Decanter Magazine (Dec 2016)
Domaine Vincent Delaporte
Patrick and I first visited Vincent Delaporte in 1986, a memorable end to a long day, we finished by tasting older and older red and white Sancerres. His wines were in Steven Spurrier's selection for the Caves de la Madeleine, where I had worked several years earlier, and the London end of which Patrick was running at the time. They have featured in the Lea & Sandeman selection since our very first list. The domaine passed to Vincent's son Jean-Yves and his wife Nathalie, and now their son Matthieu is in charge, after a 'stage' at L&S in the summer of 2012, and taken over the winemaking role. They have recently incorporated the vines of Matthieu's uncle, giving them two new jewels in the crown, decent holdings in the Monts Damnés (white) and Cul de Beaujeu (red).
Matthieu has taken the domaine in the direction of organic farming, although he still hesitates over going for certification. He has stopped buying new barrels, and stopped using cultured yeasts, sometimes allowing malolactic fermentation to occur. Levels of sulphur are kept to the barest minimum.
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