2015 La Roche Domaine Daniel Barraud
Broader more aniseed, fennel then citrus and peach, dense core of rich fruit, peach, sweet melon then aniseed and a creamy richness backed by great acid. Drinking range: 2017 - 2022 L&S (Nov 2016)
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Rating: 90 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2018)
The 2015 Macon Vergisson la Roche, from vines located at 400 meters on white limestone stones, is matured entirely in barrel (15% new). It offers touches of dried honey, apricot blossom and a touch of lemon thyme, the oak neatly integrated. The palate is well balanced with a touch of dried honey again on the entry. This feels generous and lush, perhaps just missing some of the tension and poise shown by the Macon Fuisse. Still, it will give plenty of drinking pleasure over the next five to seven years. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Sep 2017)
White flowers, ripe apple fruit, leesy texture. Attractive salty note to finish, and good vivid acid. Drinking range: 2017 - 2020 Rating: 16.5 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2017)
(this vineyard abuts the Pouilly-Fuissé vineyard of La Roche, reviewed below). Reduction presently dominates the fruit. There is a slightly finer mouth feel to the more obviously mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that possess better intensity and vibrancy before concluding in a clean, dry and saline finale. 2018+ Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 88-90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Dec 2016)
(made from two adjacent parcels featuring the same geology; done in 300-liter fûts, pièces and demi-muids): Bright light-medium yellow. Sexy smoky oak adds another dimension to the yellow fruit aromas. Ripe and broad on the palate, displaying an almost honeyed quality but also classic dryness to its flavors of peach, spices, minerals and crushed stone. Finishes minerally and long, with a kick of lemony acidity but no hardness. These vines are planted at an altitude of 380 meters facing southeast, and benefit from "great air movement," according to Julien Barraud, who noted that there's always higher acidity here. Drinking range: 2017 - 2021 Rating: 89 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Oct 2016)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).
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