2015 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
So different to the Poruzots, it's hard to believe that in time that will soften and that in ten years it will be hard to pick them blind, which Rémi says, and I know to be the case. Fat with a supple dryness just tempered by a touch of sweet fruit which creates a lovely interplay. Minerals underneath giving energy and a scrape of limestone on the tongue, a bit of smoky richness, pure and long and calm. Drinking range: 2019 - L&S (Nov 2016)
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Palish yellow with green highlights. Musky but tight and subdued on the nose. Then densely packed and savory, conveying an almost glyceral texture to its very ripe flavors of apple, white peach and spices. In a very round style but an element of saline minerality gives cut to the wine's deep, intense fruit flavors. This premier cru's building minerality gives grip to its long finish. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027 Rating: 92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Sep 2017)
Rémi Jobard tends to make quite restrained, even backward wines, and his appreciation of freshness and acidity are especially welcome in 2015. This is a very pithy, even taut Premier Cru, with richness in reserve, stylish oak and real energy and precision. Drinking range: 2018 - 2024 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Feb 2017)
Sexy and seductiveLes 5 du Vin blog (Jan 2017)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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